Brake for Cedar Breaks National Monument

Southern Utah is a treasure trove of geologic wonders.  Included in this crown of jewels is Cedar Breaks National Monument.   It is located 23 miles east of Cedar City and three miles south of Brian Head Resort. 

According to Wikipedia, “Cedar Breaks is a natural amphitheater, stretching across 3 miles, with a depth of over 2,000 feet.  The elevation of the rim of the amphitheater is over 10,000 feet above sea level.”

After our visit to the Parowan Petroglyphs, we drive south on UT-143 and enter Cedar Breaks National Monument from its north entrance.  

NPS Park Map

Entrance Sign

The Scenic Drive through the Park is open from late May until the first heavy snowfall, usually in mid-November.  No worries about snow today because our early October visit is under blue skies and temperatures are in the 60’s F. 

Just inside the park is our first overlook (North View – elevation 10,435').  It provides us with a glimpse of the exciting scenery to come.

North View Scenery

We stop at Chessmen Ridge Overlook (elevation 10,460') for a slightly different view of the canyon.  The name Chessmen comes from the amazing rock formations resembling chess pieces. 

Chessmen Ridge Overlook

The Visitor Center is near the Point Supreme Overlook (elevation 10,350').  The view from here encompasses nearly the entire monument.  The Native Americans eloquently describe this area as the "Circle of Painted Cliffs."

Point Supreme Overlook

The National Park Service (NPS) describes the area as, “Shaped like a huge coliseum, stone spires stand like statues in a gallery alongside columns, arches, and canyons.  Varying combinations of iron and manganese give the rock its different reds, yellows, and purples.” 

For those of us who aren’t rockin’ it in the geology department and need a simplistic explanation on how the landscape was formed, the NPS offers this statement.  “The geology of Cedar Breaks started around 60 million years ago.  The amphitheater one can see from various viewpoints today was created through three geological events: deposition, uplift, and erosion.”

There are three hiking trails within the park boundaries.  They are:  the easy one-mile Campground Trail; the one or two mile loop Alpine Pond Nature Trail; and the Spectra Point (2 miles round trip)/Ramparts Overlook Trail (four miles round trip). 

After a picnic dinner, we begin hiking to Spectra Point.  If you have the time, I recommend doing this hike.  The views are spectacular but the chance to see the ancient bristlecone pine is an opportunity not to be missed.

The Trail Begins ...

The trail is described as: “This trail provides a unique perspective of high-altitude life.  Low-growing cushion plants cling to exposed limestone; playful marmots sun themselves outside their burrows; old bristlecone pines stretch their gnarled branches into the sky.  Near Spectra Point is a magnificent grove of bristlecone pine trees.  One of the world’s longest-living organisms, these trees thrive in poor limestone soils.”

Hiking the Trail to Spectra Point

Scenery Along the Trail

When we arrive at Spectra Point, the late afternoon sun is coloring the canyon rocks in vibrant shades of reds and oranges and creating shadows that highlight its textures and layers. 

Views from Spectra Point Overlook

View from Spectra Point Overlook

As promised, we see a small grove of bristlecone pine.  Their twisted roots and gnarled limbs are bathed in the warm colors of the setting sun.  

Bristlecone Pine

According to Wikipedia, “The bristlecone pine, a species of tree that probably lives longer than any other single organism, can also be found in the high country, with some local specimens known to be more than 1600 years old. “

Bristlecone Pine at the Edge of the Rim

Bristlecone Pine Tree Trunk

During our visit, we had Spectra Point to ourselves.  It was a quiet and beautiful place to be at sunset.   

It is twilight time when we begin walking the mile trail back to the parking lot.

Another cool feature about Cedar Breaks is its dark skies (great for star gazing).  It is one of only a handful of dark sky parks in the world.  We leave Cedar Breaks National Monument under starry skies. A waning gibbous moon rises in the eastern sky changing from a golden color to yellow to white as it rises higher into the night sky.

Now, we need to find a place to stay for the night.  I am a planner but my Hubby likes to be spontaneous.  Tonight was one of those times that spontaneity was not a good idea.  After several failed attempts to find a hotel room, we are told the town of Kanab has several national chain hotels and a number of "Mom & Pop" establishments.  

Upon our arrival in Kanab, we are greeted by "no vacancy" signs.  One hotel clerk says "I think the Rodeway Inn about two blocks from here has one smoking room left".  She calls them and they hold the room for us.  When we enter the lobby, the desk clerk tells us “it’s a good thing you called because someone else just came in looking for a room.”  Apparently all hotels within an 80 mile radius are full tonight (tour buses are parked at every hotel with more than 20 rooms). I think we literally got the last room in town.  Meanwhile, we see other people desperately looking for a place to stay.  So, the moral to the story is – it’s better to be safe than sorry - book your hotel rooms ahead of time especially if the tour buses are in town. 

Food and lodging services are not available at Cedar Breaks National Monument, but can be found in the surrounding areas.

Brian Head (population 86 in 2013) is about 3 miles away and offers a few lodging options and limited places to eat.           
Cedar City (population 29,162 in 2013) is about 20.5 miles away and offers a wide variety of lodging and dining choices.

Springdale (population 548 in 2013) has a limited lodging and dining options.

Kanab (population 4,468 in 2013) is about 68 miles away and has numerous lodging and dining establishments.

Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I recommend checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.  

If you enjoy camping, there are 25 campsites within Cedar Breaks National Monument at the Point Supreme Campground.  There is also a picnic area with tables and restrooms (during the summer season).

CONTACT INFORMATION:  Cedar Breaks National Monument, 2390 West Highway 56, Suite #11, Cedar City, Utah (USA)

Phone:  (435) 586-9451 x4420

GENERAL INFORMATION:  This 9,617 square mile national monument was established by President Franklin Roosevelt on August 22, 1933.  Even though the Park is open year-round, winter access may be limited due to its high elevation and wintry conditions.

An entrance fee is required for Cedar Breaks National Monument.   If you don’t have a park pass, the fee can be paid at the station at Point Supreme.  

For information and photos on nearby places we visited, I invite you to view my other blog posts by clicking on the following links:

Plane Your Visit - Bryce Canyon NP

Plan Your Visit - Zion NP

A Boo-tiful Spot for a Ghost Town - Grafton Utah

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories.  To start planning your memorable trip to Cedar Breaks National Monument click on the “Plan Your Visit” link below:

Plan Your Visit - Cedar Break NM

Visiting Canyonlands National Park

Canyonlands National Park is located in southeastern Utah (about 32 miles from Moab, Utah USA). 
It is divided into three districts: the Island in the Sky, the Needles, and the Maze.     

  

Canyonlands District Map

According to Wikipedia, “It preserves a colorful landscape eroded into countless canyons, mesas, and buttes by the Colorado River, the Green River, and their respective tributaries.  Legislation creating the park was signed into law by President Lyndon Johnson on September 12, 1964.”

Because of its close proximity to Moab, and easy accessibility, the Island in the Sky district receives the highest visitation (about 59%).  A paved road travels across this broad mesa offering “top of the world” views of the rugged landscape carved by the Colorado and Green Rivers. 

The second most visited area of the Park is the Needles district with 35% of the Park visitors coming here.  The Needles district is named after the red and white banded rock pinnacles found here

The remote Maze district is the least visited section (3%).  A visit to this wild area of the Park requires planning, preparedness, and proper equipment/gear.    

I have to admit that I personally have not visited the Needles or the Maze districts.  But for those who do, the scenery and memories created may be worth the extra time and effort to come here. 

On this vacation, we are doing Utah’s Grand Circle Tour which encompasses five U.S. National Parks.  Yesterday we went to Arches National Park.  Today, we are going to the Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands National Park.  We turn on UT-313 and drive 22 miles to the Island in the Sky entrance.

Entrance Sign

Our first stop is the Visitor Center.   It is open daily but the hours vary by season.  If you don’t have a park pass, you can purchase one at the Visitor Center. 

The 12-mile auto tour begins at the Visitor Center and ends at Grand View Point.  Along the way are some great scenic views and hiking opportunities.  If you have the time, I recommend getting out of the car – listen to the sounds of nature, feel the cool breeze on your face, and see the beauty that has been preserved for us to enjoy. 

Island in the Sky District Map

Today, the air is cool, the skies are gray, and the threat of rain is predicted to arrive around 3 pm.  We stop at the Shafer Canyon Overlook.  A four-wheel drive, high-clearance vehicle is needed to drive the primitive Shafer Canyon Road … and it looks pretty scary to me!   Due to recent rains, portions of this road were not navigable during our visit. 

Shafer Canyon Road

View from Shafer Canyon Overlook

We park our jeep and walk to the edge of the overlook.  Cue the rain - an hour earlier than predicted.  So while it rains, we eat our sandwiches in the comfort of our jeep.  Fortunately, the steady rain doesn’t last more than 10 minutes or so. I think it is interesting to note that the average annual rain fall for this area is nine inches.  So far, we have experienced rain everyday since we arrived in Utah.

Gray skies are gonna clear up - so let’s keep moving …

 Grand View Point Road

There are over a dozen trails to hike in the Island in the Sky district ranging from an easy half mile walk to Mesa Arch to strenuous workouts that tackle elevation changes up to 2,000 feet.  I don’t do the strenuous hikes anymore but I still love to hike and enjoy nature. 

The Mesa Arch Trail is a “must do”.  From the parking lot, you can hike the trail to the left (clockwise) or right (counter clockwise) or hike it as a loop.  If you go right, you will see the arch sooner.  If you go left, the arch comes as a surprise.  We opt to hike the well-marked, loop trail in a clockwise direction so we can see the different scenery.  

Mesa Arch is a popular spot especially at sunrise when the underside of the arch seems to glow in the early morning light.   Obviously, we weren’t here at sunrise but there were still quite a few people waiting for a turn to pose in front of the arch.  This iconic symbol of Canyonlands serves as a natural frame for the canyon below and the mountains in the distance. 

Trail to Mesa Arch

View through Mesa Arch

Mesa Arch (50' long)

We have two hours until sunset and we still have lots to see.  We continue driving the Park road stopping to see the views at Candlestick Tower, Buck Canyon Overlook, and Orange Cliffs Overlook.  

Candlestick Tower

Buck Canyon Overlook

Orange Cliffs Overlook

At the end of the road is Grand View Point Overlook (elevation 6,000 feet). The sun is low in the sky and creating light and shadows among the rock pinnacles and buttes.  It reminds me of the Grand Canyon.

Grand View Point Overlook

We spend some time walking around and admiring the scenery.  This is definitely an “ah” spot.  As the sun gets closer to the horizon I’m noticing the cool air surrounding me.  It’s time to get back to the jeep and get the chill out of my bones.  

We drive to the Green River Overlook thinking it might be a good place to see the “afterglow” of the sunset.  However, when we arrive, the view from the overlook is beautiful but the clouds barely get a tinge of color from the setting sun.  

Green River Overlook

The drive from Canyonlands to Moab seems long - especially in the dark.  

For information and photos on places we visited in southern Utah, I invite you to view my other blog posts by clicking on the following links:

Plan Your Visit - Arches NP

Plan Your Visit - Bryce Canyon NP

Plan Your Visit - Capitol Reef NP

Plan Your Visit - Zion NP

Plan Your Visit - Goblin Valley SP

A BOO-tiful Place for a Ghost Town - Grafton, Utah

Burr-Raving the Burr Trail

An All American Road - Scenic UT-12
Denice's Blog North Rim of the Grand Canyon

There are two campgrounds within the boundaries of Canyonlands National Park.  They are:  Squaw Flat Campground in The Needles District and Willow Flat Campground in the Island in the Sky District. 

There aren't any food, lodging, or gas services available within the Park's boundaries.  The closest services, listed by district, can be found in the following towns:

-  Island in the Sky:  Moab, Utah (population of 5,130 as of 2013) is 32 miles from the Island in the Sky Visitor Center) and offers a nice variety of food and lodging options. 

-  The Needles:  Monticello, Utah (population 1,975 as of 2013) is 48 miles from the Needles Visitor Center and offers some locally owned restaurants and hotels
-  The Maze:  From the Hans Flat Ranger Station - Hanksville, Utah (population 215 in 2013) is 61 miles and offers a limited selection of food and lodging options or Green River, Utah (population 929 as of 2013) is 84 miles and (because of its close proximity to I-70) offers the best selection of national chain hotels and restaurants. 

Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I recommend checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.  

CONTACT INFORMATION:  Canyonlands NP,  2282 Resource Blvd. Moab, UT 84532

Phone:  (435) 719-2313

GENERAL INFORMATION:  This year-round park is Utah’s larges national park (337,598 acres or 527,497 square miles).  It offers a variety of recreational opportunities like hiking, mountain biking, backpacking, four-wheel driving, and lots of photo opportunities.  

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories.  To start planning your memorable trip to Canyonlands National Park click on the “Plan Your Visit” link below:

Plan Your Visit - Canyonlands NP

High On Zion National Park

Utah’s Grand Circle Tour allows visitors a chance to see five U.S. National Parks (Zion, Bryce Canyon, Arches, Canyonlands, and Capitol Reef) all within easy driving distance from each other.  Stunning scenery, hiking/recreational opportunities, and memorable moments made this unique area of Utah the perfect destination for our two-week vacation in late October.

Located in southwestern Utah (USA), this 146,597 acre park was Utah’s first National Park (established on November 19, 1919).  

According to Wikipedia, “The Park’s unique geology includes mountains, canyons, buttes, mesas, monoliths, rivers, slot canyons, and natural arches.  A prominent feature of the 229-square-mile park is Zion Canyon, which is 15 miles long and up to half a mile deep, cut through the reddish and tan-colored Navajo Sandstone by the North Fork of the Virgin River.”

The Visitor Center should be one of the first places you go.  If you don’t have a park pass, you can purchase one at the Visitor Center. While you are here, Park Rangers can provide current information on road/trail closures, weather forecasts/flash flood warnings, and other important details for planning your visit.  For your own safety, always be prepared and alert to your surroundings.  

We enter Zion National Park through the east entrance via UT-9 (aka Mount Carmel Highway).  The Zion-Mount Carmel Highway took three years (1927-1930) to complete and includes two tunnels built through solid rock.  This year-round road connects the east side of the park to the south side of the Park and provides access to the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive.  The Zion–Mount Carmel Highway was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1987. 

UT-9 (aka Mount Carmel Highway)

East Entrance Sign

At the entrance station, ask for a park newspaper.  It is a valuable source of information about hiking, camping, backcountry recreation, large vehicle restrictions, and includes several maps.  Caution … stunning scenery ahead!