Thursday, August 30, 2018

Yellowstone: Hell's Half Acre

Yellowstone National Park is home to 10,000 thermal features. Some are found like hidden gems buried deep in the back country while other thermal treasures are found along the Grand Loop Road – like Midway Geyser Basin. Within this small basin lies the most intensely-colored jewel of them all. It’s one of the Park’s most iconic and photographed features …

This is a continuing series of blog posts on Yellowstone National Park. I’ve already shared information about some of Yellowstone’s geyser basins (a link about many of them follows this post). Today, we are heading to the Midway Geyser Basin which is considered part of the Lower Geyser Basin. We will be walking the boardwalk trail in a clock-wise direction. This easy 8/10’s of a mile loop trail is a popular spot. We call it a “filler hike” because short walks are what we do when we have small pockets of time between other activities.
Midway Geyser Basin & Firehole River
Midway is aptly named because it is located half-way between the Upper and Lower Geyser Basins. It is on the west side of the Grand Loop Road a short distance north of the Old Faithful area.
NPS Map
Midway may be a small geyser basin but it has two of the largest thermal features in Yellowstone – Excelsior Geyser Crater and Grand Prismatic Spring. While it was named Midway Geyser Basin in 1878, it was known by another popular name - “Hell’s Half Acre”.
Exhibit Map
In the 1880’s Excelsior Geyser had eruptions up to 300 feet high and 300 feet wide.  Can you imagine how those early explorers felt when the ground started shaking under their feet and they heard the rumbling noises coming from the bowels of the earth? It’s no wonder someone thought all hell was breaking loose here. It was named in 1881 by the Park’s Superintendent. “Excelsior” is the Latin word for “higher”. Once it was the world’s largest geyser. Today, Excelsior’s gaping crater (276’x328’) emits billowing clouds of steam but shows little to no signs of activity.   
 Excelsior Geyser Crater
We begin walking toward Grand Prismatic Spring. Across the way, I see people silhouetted against the steamy background with their shadows reflecting in the pools of water.
Grand Prismatic Spring (250’x380’ and 125’ deep) is the largest hot spring in Yellowstone and the third largest in the world (New Zealand has the other two springs). The spring’s brilliant colors were the inspiration for its name. It’s easy to see why the iconic Grand Prismatic Spring is one of the Park’s most photographed landscapes.
 Grand Prismatic Spring
Close-Up of Run-Off - Grand Prismatic Spring
So, here’s the scoop on Grand Prismatic Spring. You can not see or appreciate its size and beauty from ground level. To truly view its grandeur, you need to take a hike. Begin at the Midway Geyser Basin parking lot and follow the Fairy Falls trail. In less than a mile, you will turn onto the recently established side trail up the hillside to an observation area. We did this side trail up the hillside during our hike to Fairy Falls in 2010. The above photo was taken from that vantage point.

We continue walking around the boardwalk trail to Opal Pool. I can’t find any information about this pool (size or how it got its name). Maybe my next visit to Yellowstone I can ask a Park Ranger at a Visitor Center. If I find any information, I will add it to this post.   
Opal Pool
The last major thermal feature in the Midway Geyser Basin is Turquoise Pool (100’x110’). The 1878 Hayden Expedition named this pool for its gem-like, blue-colored water.
Turquoise Pool
No matter how many times I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing its ever-changing scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:

Planning a visit to Yellowstone? Food and lodging options are available inside the park and in towns just outside the park (West Yellowstone, Gardiner, and Cooke City/Silver Gate – all located in Montana). I highly recommend making lodging reservations in advance. Yellowstone is a popular destination and “No Vacancy” signs are common especially during the peak summer months. Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I suggest checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

My best advice is this - don’t just drive through Yellowstone – experience it!

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience.   

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone, please click on the following link:

Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Yellowstone: Fountain Flat Drive & Beyond

With over 4 million visitors a year (2015-2017), there isn’t any doubt that Yellowstone National Park is a popular destination. Despite these high visitor numbers, there are some things you can do to get away from the hustle and bustle found in the Park's congested areas.

The major attractions, are going to be busy and escaping the crowds can be challenging. My best advice is to visit them early in the morning or later in the afternoon – or how about winter in Yellowstone! Mid-day seems to be the peak time for seeing these popular places. That’s when we seek other areas of the park that are less visited – like Fountain Flat Drive.

Fountain Flat Drive is located about 12 miles north of Old Faithful on the west side of Grand Loop Road. I wouldn’t call it a scenic drive (at least compared to other Yellowstone roads); but, it does offer some hiking/biking opportunities (along the Fountain Freight Road) where you can get away from the crowded areas of the park.
NPS Map
Near the beginning of the paved road, we cross Nez Perce Creek. There is a picnic area here. So, pack a picnic and enjoy this pleasant place prior to pedaling or hiking the trail. Restrooms are located here too.
Nez Perce Creek
We watch for wildlife because elk and bison frequently travel through this area. A short distance later, we see a herd of bison along the Firehole River.
Bison along Firehole River
At the end of the Fountain Flat Drive is a parking area. A gate prevents vehicular traffic from going any further. This is the trailhead to destinations like Fairy Falls or Queen’s Laundry and Sentinel Meadows. We’ve been to Fairy Falls (a link to that hike follows this post). Today, we are doing the Sentinel Meadows trail (2.8 miles round trip).

The trail begins on an old dirt road sometimes referred to as Fountain Freight Road. This four mile long road roughly parallels the Grand Loop Road. Shortly after we cross the Firehole River bridge, we see Ojo Caliente.  In Spanish, “Ojo” means “eye” and “Caliente” means “hot”.  This hot spring discharges into the Firehole River.   
Ojo Caliente Spring
I first visited this area in 1987. I seem to recall the trail was closer to the historic Queen’s Laundry bath house than it was during our 2006 visit. I do not recommend off-trail hiking especially in thermal areas. You do so at your own risk.   
Queen's Laundry
I think it’s interesting to learn how places get their names. The name “Queens Laundry” (aka Red Terrace Spring) was too intriguing not to investigate its origins. In 1880, a park road was being built. Members of the work crew discovered that the water in this area was cool enough for bathing and doing laundry*. In 1881, the Park Superintendent began building a two-room bathhouse. It was never finished and the log building still stands among the swirling mists of the thermal area. On July 25, 2001 these historic ruins were added to the National Register of Historic Places.   
Historic Queen's Laundry Bath House
*These destructive activities were discontinued and it is no longer permitted to swim/bath in the thermals areas.

We continue walking the level trail through the open meadows. Once we can see the Midway Geyser Basin, we decide to return the way we came versus hiking the longer 7.8 mile loop trail that goes to Imperial Geyser and Fairy Falls and then back to the Fountain Flat Drive parking area.  
View from Sentinel Meadows Trail
No matter how many times I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing its ever-changing scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:

Planning a visit to Yellowstone? Food and lodging options are available inside the park and in towns just outside the park (West Yellowstone, Gardiner, and Cooke City/Silver Gate – all located in Montana). I highly recommend making lodging reservations in advance. Yellowstone is a popular destination and “No Vacancy” signs are common especially during the peak summer months. Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I suggest checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

My best advice is this - don’t just drive through Yellowstone – experience it!

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience.

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone, please click on the following link:

Friday, August 24, 2018

Yellowstone: Mammoth Hot Springs are Really Cool (Lower Terraces)

Yellowstone National Park has many special places but the travertine terraces found at Mammoth Hot Springs are one of my favorite areas in the Park. This post features the Lower Terraces and is a continuation from my previous post on the Upper Terraces. A boardwalk trail (about 1.75 miles with 300 feet of elevation change) goes around the Upper and Lower Terraces.
Mammoth Hot Springs Trail Guide Map
Mammoth Hot Springs is always changing and sometimes the change can occur overnight. That’s because the rapid build up of travertine can create obstacles for the water’s flow. Water takes the path of least resistance. That means a once dry and chalky-white terrace may spring to life in a colorful display while another terrace may become dry and dormant. Such is the exciting cycle at Mammoth Hot Springs.

To demonstrate this constant state of change, I am including some photos we took in 1989 as a comparison. Since our cameras weren’t as good in 1989, the photo quality reflects the camera quality.

We park the car at the largest parking area in front of the boardwalk trail to Minerva Terrace. From here, we walk the handicap accessible trail to see the iconic symbol of Mammoth - Liberty Cap. This 37’ tall extinct hot spring cone of travertine is estimated to be 2,500 years old. It was given its name in 1871 because of its resemblance to the conical caps (sometimes referred to as Liberty Caps) worn by the French revolutionary army as part of their uniform.
Liberty Cap
Hymen Terrace near Liberty Cap
Opposite Liberty Cap, on the east side of the road, is Opal Terrace. It was named in 1871 by the Hayden expedition. It was probably named for its opalescent blue color. I’m not sure why but we have never stopped to go see it. A photo of it will have to wait for a future visit.

We walk back to the parking lot. From here, we climb the hillside stairs to continue our tour of the Lower Terraces. For no particular reason, we walk the loop trail around Minerva Terrace in a counter-clockwise direction.  
Minerva Terrace (2018)
 Minerva Terrace (2010)
Minerva Terrace (1989)
In Roman mythology, Minerva was the goddess of artists and sculptors. It’s a fitting name for a place that is constantly being sculpted and shaped. During active periods, water cascades over a series of step-like travertine terraces creating a colorful hillside. During inactive periods, the travertine is exposed. When travertine is new, it is bright white in color. It turns gray as it ages and weathers.

On our right, we pass a lovely blue-colored pool called Palette Spring.
Palette Spring (2014)
Nearby is another extinct travertine cone called Devil’s Thumb.
Devil's Thumb
Along the “backside” of Minerva Terrace is Cleopatra Terrace (to our right). Unfortunately, we didn’t stop to photograph it during our last Yellowstone visit. I’m curious to see what it looks like today.
Cleopatra Terrace (1989)
Celopatra Terrace (2018)
We arrive at an intersection to the boardwalk trail. A right turn would take us up the hillside to an overlook at the Upper Terraces. Since we have already been there, we turn left (back toward the parking lot).

In 2018, we didn't see a lot of color at Mammoth Hot Springs until we reached Mound Spring.  Here, we find a rainbow of pastel colors dripping down the limestotne ledges into a beautiful pool rimmed with white edging.
 Mound Spring (2018)
Mound Spring
The trail to the parking lot takes us by Mound Terrace and Jupiter Terrace.
Boardwalk Trail
If Mound Terrace were in a cave, these icicle looking features would be called Cave Draperies.
Mound Terrace (2010)
Mound Terrace (2018)
Jupiter Terrace is attached to Mound Terrace. In 1871, the Hayden expedition named it for the Roman god Jupiter. During our 1980’s visit, Jupiter Terrace was active. 
 Jupiter Terrace (1989)
Jupiter Terrace (2010)
Jupiter Terrace (2018)
Here are my final thoughts about touring the terraces.   If it is sunny and warm, you need to know there aren’t any shade trees along the boardwalk trail.  It’s always a good idea to bring some water to drink but please pack out what you bring in.  Oh, and don’t forget your camera and an extra battery!

No matter how many times I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing its ever-changing scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:

Planning a visit to Yellowstone? Food and lodging options are available inside the park and in towns just outside the park (West Yellowstone, Gardiner, and Cooke City/Silver Gate – all located in Montana). I highly recommend making lodging reservations in advance. Yellowstone is a popular destination and “No Vacancy” signs are common especially during the peak summer months. Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I suggest checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

My best advice is this - don’t just drive through Yellowstone – experience it!

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience.

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone, please click on the following link:

Monday, August 20, 2018

Yellowstone: Mammoth Hot Springs are Really Cool (Upper Terraces)

Yellowstone National Park is a true “hot spot” making it a really cool place to visit. The thermal features (like Old Faithful) are certainly among the reasons that make Yellowstone such a spectacular and special place. Old Faithful may grab the spotlight but the travertine terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs should not be missed.
Mammoth Hot Springs Trail Guide Map
What I love about the Mammoth Hot Springs area is the ever changing landscape. Each time we come here we see something new or different. That’s because the rapid build up of travertine can create obstacles for the water’s flow. Water takes the path of least resistance. So, while one terrace may become drier and appear a chalky white another terrace may spring back to life in a colorful display.

I’m going to start with the Upper Terrace. The Upper Terrace Drive is located two miles south of Mammoth Hot Spring Visitor Center. The drive through the Upper Terrace area is on a narrow winding paved road which makes it unsuitable for oversized vehicles.

We turn off the Grand Loop Road to begin the 1.5 mile, one way scenic drive. At the second parking area, we begin hiking the boardwalk trail to Canary Spring. An exhibit sign identifies what we are seeing.
 Exhibit Sign
Panoramic View
The boardwalk trail leads us passed Grassy Spring.  
 Boardwalk Trail
Grassy Spring
After we pass Grassy Spring, the boardwalk turns and joins with the handicap accessible trail to Canary Spring.  Along the way is Trail Springs.  I take some of my favorite photos of the area here.   
 Trail Springs Overlook
View from Trail Springs Overlook
There are lots of photo opportunities.  Sometimes I want to capture the ‘”big picture” and other times I like to focus on a small area that creates a hint of what the area has to offer.   
 Close-Ups in Nature
At the end of the boardwalk trail is Canary Spring. We continue down a short set of stairs. It is from this viewpoint that I photograph the beautiful golden yellow of Canary Spring.
Canary Spring
We return to our car and continue our drive. We haven’t had lunch yet. We eat a few snacks but decide to skip Prospect Spring and New Highland Terrace. They will have to wait for a future visit.

Orange Spring Mound is located very close to the road. Many people slow down as they drive by it; but I think it is worth what we call “a two-minute photo stop”. For us, that means something has caught our attention and deserves a quick stop – not just a drive-by.  
 Orange Spring Mound
The “spring” is located at the top of Orange Spring Mound. We get out of the car and walk the short trail that parallels it. I think the top of the mound looks like giant scoops of orange sherbet with shredded coconut mixed in it.  Okay, that’s it.  I am definitely ready for lunch.
Ice Cream, Anyone?
We drive by Bath Lake and White Elephant Back Terrace.  It’s another reason to return here.

The name “Angel Terrace” sounded too heavenly to skip by it.  Apparently it had been inactive until recent years.  Hmm, why am I suddenly thinking about a slice of angel food cake?
Angel Terrace
We exit the scenic drive and head north to Mammoth for a late lunch at the Terrace Grill.   Bummers!  I didn't see any angel food cake or orange sherbet on the menu.  That’s okay. We enjoyed a quick meal before getting ready for our walk around the Lower Terraces.  You can read all about them in my next blog post.

No matter how many times I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing its ever-changing scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:

Planning a visit to Yellowstone? Food and lodging options are available inside the park and in towns just outside the park (West Yellowstone, Gardiner, and Cooke City/Silver Gate – all located in Montana). I highly recommend making lodging reservations in advance. Yellowstone is a popular destination and “No Vacancy” signs are common especially during the peak summer months. Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I suggest checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

My best advice is this - don’t just drive through Yellowstone – experience it!

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience.
Inside Yellowstone – A Series of Short Videos

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone, please click on the following link:

Sunday, August 19, 2018

Yellowstone: Fountain Paint Pot Nature Trail

Yellowstone National Park is home to over 10,000 thermal features including geysers, hot springs, mudpots, and fumaroles. At Fountain Paint Pot, we have the chance to see all four types along this half-mile nature trail.

The parking lot for Fountain Paint Pot is located off the Grand Loop Road between Old Faithful and Madison Junction. If you just exited the Firehole Lake Drive (like we did), the parking lot is across the road.
NPS Map
This easy loop trail is another one of our “filler” hikes.   It is perfect length to do when we have just a little time before lunch or we want to take a quick stroll before sunset.

Because our time is limited, we walk the trail in a counter-clockwise direction. This will get us to the main thermal features at the beginning of our walk versus the end of it.

The first thing we notice along the boardwalk trail is the algae. The colors serve as temperature indicators. Oranges, yellows, reds, and browns indicate a higher water temperature.   
Algae and Boardwalk Trail
The first main feature we see is Silex Spring.  Its size is about 35' x 40' and 27' deep.  The beautiful blue water is surrounded by a white “lacy” edging. Silex is Latin for silica which is found in rhyolite - the primary volcanic rock found in Yellowstone.   
Silex Spring
Just up the hill is Fountain Paint Pot.  In 1871, it was called "Mud Puff".  Then, in 1875, it was thought to resemble a vat of bubbling paint.  Over the years, it has been referred to by many different names including “Mammoth Paintpot” and “Devil’s Paintbox”. In 1927, the name Fountain Paint Pot became its official name.   
Fountain Paint Pot
As I gaze into this bubbling vat of clay, the bubbles popping at its surface look thick like glue. They make a bluep, bluep sound when they pop.  For some reason, I find this fascinating to watch.

The fumarole is a gaping hole in the ground.  Steam oozes from its opening and hisses like a radiator.
A Fumarole
Leather Pool was also known as “White Sulphur Spring” but in 1927 the name Leather Pool was accepted as its official name.   
Leather Pool
Red Spouter is the result of an earthquake that shook this region in 1959.  At that time, it was given its name because it was spewing reddish-colored muddy water.
Red Spouter
We walk down some stairs and enter the geyser area. On my left I find Jet Geyser. It’s currently in an active phase with heavy steam billowing around its base while shooting bursts of water 10-15 feet high.   
Jet Geyser
On the opposite side of the boardwalk from Jet Geyser is Fountain Geyser.  It’s been known by this name since 1871. I find the inactive geyser and surrounding pools create a sculptural landscape of blue and white.  However, when it erupts, the water can burst to heights of 50-75 feet. 
Fountain Geyser (2010)
Fountain Geyser (2005)
Spasm Geyser is a potential indicator for Fountain Geyser. If you don’t see the water at Spasm Geyser splashing (up to 3 feet), Fountain Geyser has probably had a recent eruption. This was the case during our 2010 visit.  Spasm Geyser was bubbling like a witches cauldron.   
Spasm Geyser (Clepsydra Geyser in background)
Located near Spasm Geyser is Clepsydra Geyser.  It never disappoints us because it seems to be in a perpetual state of activity with eruptions from 10'-40' high.  Prior to the 1959 earthquake, Clepsydra erupted every three minutes. This clockwork consistency resulted in its name which refers to a metal vessel that was used as a water clock in ancient Greece.   
Clepsydra Geyser
In recent years, Jelly Geyser has been dormant.  However, the water level may fluctuate from low (as seen here) to overflowing.  
Jelly Geyser
The boardwalk trail takes us by a sinter area. On our right, we see a gray-white landscape devoid of trees.    Sinter is slowly being deposited here by the run-off water from the nearby thermal features.  I think it creates a lonely and forbidden landscape.   
Sinter Area
At the end of the boardwalk trail, we find a ghost forest of lodgepole pines. Some people say it looks like the trees are wearing white bobby socks. I learned from my visit at Black Sand Basin what happened to these trees. The once living trees absorbed the water filled with silica and other minerals from nearby thermal features. Eventually, this kills the lodgepole pine. The water evaporates leaving only the minerals which turn the base of the tree white.   
Lodgepole Pines
After the lodgepole pines, we pass by Celestine Pool. While the origin of the name is unknown, it is possible that it is based on the Latin word 'caelestis' meaning 'heavenly’. A photo of this lovely blue hot spring will have to wait for a future Yellowstone visit. We are running out of time and need to keep moving to our next destination.

No matter how many times I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing its ever-changing scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:

Planning a visit to Yellowstone? Food and lodging options are available inside the park and in towns just outside the park (West Yellowstone, Gardiner, and Cooke City/Silver Gate – all located in Montana). I highly recommend making lodging reservations in advance. Yellowstone is a popular destination and “No Vacancy” signs are common especially during the peak summer months. Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I suggest checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

My best advice is this - don’t just drive through Yellowstone – experience it!

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience.   

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone, please click on the following link: