Friday, June 22, 2018

Backpacking Yellowstone: Quiet Wild Moments

Yellowstone – the world’s first National Park – is known throughout the world for its thermal features but it is also famous for its wildlife. During this particular backcountry camping trip, we respectfully shared the land with some of these magnificent creatures.

After we obtain our backcountry permit (they are free at any Ranger Station or Visitor Center), we arrive at the Cascade Lake Trail Picnic Area (about 1.5 miles north of Canyon Junction). We park the car and get our backpacks ready for three nights of camping at Cascade Lake.
NPS Map showing Cascade Lake Location
It’s late afternoon before we begin our 2.2 mile hike to Cascade Lake. The trail is fairly easy and flat. We walk through open meadows and watch for wildlife. We see a bison lying down in the meadow but not much else.    
Cascade Lake
Cascade Lake is just ahead of us. We keep walking through a meadow turning right at the trail that goes to Observation Peak. Within a short distance, we find the spur trail that will lead us to our designated campsite at the edge of the forest near Cascade Lake.

Here, we setup our camp starting with the designated area for cooking and hanging food. Next, we follow the narrow foot trail another 100+ yards where we find a level area big enough to set up our two-person tent.
 Campsite Trail with Tent in Background
Tent at edge of forest
View of Cascade Lake from tent
Spur Trail To/From Campsite
While we still have some daylight, we walk to Cascade Lake to get some water for cooking. The water looks clear but it is important to purify the water to be safe from giardia. While my Hubby is collecting a container of water, I look around the area. A nearly full moon is rising over the top of a ridge. That’s when I see him. In the meadow, a grizzly bear has his nose to the ground totally engrossed in his search for food. Now, I don’t mind getting a bear hug from my Honey Bear but that is as close to a bear encounter that I wish get.
Moonrise & Grizzly Bear
Back at our campsite, my Honey Bear starts the evening fire in the designated food area. He boils a pot of water for a couple of minutes and then purifies it even further with iodine tablets. As darkness descends upon the landscape, the campfire helps us to see what is within the confines of its lighted area. I can’t help but wonder if there is a bear watching us from somewhere beyond our circle of light.

We don’t do any cooking for dinner – just cheese and crackers, nuts, and other snacks. After we get done eating, we hang our food keeping our campsite clean and safe. We are constantly “Bear Aware”. What happened to the bear in the meadow? He’s not Yogi the Bear (the lovable cartoon character from Jellystone Park) looking to steal our picnic basket. Okay, maybe he would steal our food if we didn’t properly store it. So, I named the bear from the meadow Yogi.

The full moon rises higher in the night sky. Its light finally penetrating the tree tops and casting a soft light on our surroundings. It’s getting late and the campfire isn’t needed as a light source anymore,. After we completely extinguish it, we head down the trail to the tent. We use our flashlights to sweep across the area and talk while we walk. It was the longest 100 yards. Once inside the tent, I lie awake listening for sounds but I don’t hear anything. The forest is eerily quiet tonight. Where are you Yogi? I ask God to protect us and fall into a restless night sleep.

After daylight arrives, I am able to sleep for an hour or so. Meanwhile, my Hubby has brought the food bag down from the hanging pole and has water boiling on the camp stove. We have a gourmet breakfast consisting of oatmeal, breakfast bars, and cups of hot cocoa.

After we hang the food and cleanup the campsite, we get ready for our six mile (round trip) hike to Observation Peak. More ambitious people might do Observation Peak as a day hike (11 mile round trip from the Cascade Lake Trail Picnic Area parking lot). We prefer to take our time and really enjoy the hike and the scenery. After all, the beauty of a hike is as much about the journey as it is about the destination.

At Cascade Lake, the trail to Observation Peak is a steady 1,400-foot climb to the summit. As we begin our trek to the top, we get a nice view of Cascade Lake. Except for some bison grazing on the hillside, we have the trail to ourselves.   
View of Cascade Lake
The trail passes through meadows and stands of burned pine tree forests. We called them “ghost forests”. Fallen logs along the trail serve as nature’s furniture offering us a place to “sit a spell” and listen to the sounds of Yellowstone. In the distance, a bull elk is bugling his mating call. From their perches in the pines, the birds are serenading us with their songs. Alone on the trail, we take a moment to stop and appreciate the beauty of Yellowstone’s quiet wild.   
Ghost Forest of White-Bark Pine Trees
The summit to Observation Peak is just over the next hill.
Almost to the Summit
The panoramic view of Grebe Lake and the valley below is rewarding and well worth hiking here. For some reason, I can’t get the tune “On top of Old Smoky” out of my head. Here at the top of Observation Peak (9,397 feet high), it is cold and windy. I use the side of the abandoned lookout tower as a shield from the wind.
Abandoned Lookout Tower
View of Grebe Lake
It’s time to begin our return hike to our campsite at Cascade Lake. The scenery is just as good going down the trail as it was going up the trail.   
 Trail Views
Trail View of Cascade Lade
We arrive back in camp by 6:30pm. There doesn’t seem to be any sign of Yogi the Bear. A lone bison grazes in the meadow near Cascade Lake.   
Bison in Meadow near Cascade Lake
While we gather wood for a fire and get water from the lake, the sunset is painting the sky in vibrant shades of pink, red and orange.    
Sunset at Cascade Lake
Once again, my Hubby builds the evening campfire. By 10:45 pm, we decide to hang the food, extinguish the fire, and go to the tent for the night.

What a difference from last night. Tonight, the forest is alive with the sounds of nature. We can’t see them, but two bull elk are bugling constantly somewhere near our tent. Hearing the bugling of an elk is considered a “true Yellowstone experience”. It is thrilling – at first… but at 3am, you just want to yell “SHUT UP!” I take all this activity as a positive sign that Yogi the Bear has left the area.

After spending the night wandering around our campsite, the bugling elk leave just before dawn. Aaah, peace and quiet at last …. THUD, THUD, THUD! What is that? It’s the squirrels. They are in the trees dropping pine cones to the ground all around our tent. Eventually, one of the pine cones hits the tent. I think that was their intent all along – they just had poor aim.

Now that he is awake, my Hubby starts a campfire and prepares breakfast for us. When we camp, he does all the cooking and cleaning. Gotta love that!

While he fixes breakfast, I stay in the tent observing the sunlight and shadows playing across the roof of the tent. Using my vivid imagination, I see what looks like pencil drawings of a cat, a bird and a man’s face.
Tent Shadows (black marker used to enhance facial features)
While we are eating breakfast, we hear voices coming from the meadow. It is Saturday morning, so we are not surprised to see hikers on the trail today.

While those hikers head to Observation Peak, we will hike to Grebe Lake (a four mile round trip hike from Cascade Lake).   
Trail Cascade Lake to Grebe Lake
Beyond Cascade Lake, the trail to Grebe Lake involves crossing small streams (using logs or rocks or just jumping across it) and climbing over fallen tree trunks – think of it as nature’s gym set. The forest floor is carpeted in colors often found in a harvest-time cornucopia that is filled with red apples, yellow bananas, and oranges.
Near one fallen tree, a lone bison stands quietly about ten feet off the trail. He sees us and moves away deeper into the tangled web of downed trees.   
(Bison photographed using a telephoto lens)
After awhile, we enter a forest at the edge of Grebe Lake. The forest is a combination of new and mature pine trees. We take this opportunity to sit underneath the shady canopy of the forest and enjoy the solitude. A Mountain Chickadee sings to us, a squirrel scolds us from a nearby tree, a waterfowl honks as he flies overhead, a few insects buzz around us and the breezes are like a soft whisper. These quiet wild moments are what my Hubby loves about Yellowstone.

The afternoon sun is working its way westward. That’s our signal to return to camp.   
Grebe Lake
Once again, we see a full moon rising over the ridge. Yogi is gone but four deer are running back and forth across the meadow. A coyote must be chasing them.

A short time after we enter the tent, we hear a yelping bark. We assume it’s a coyote. Last night’s dueling bugling elks have moved further away from us. We do hear an owl hooting … otherwise, a much quieter night.

This is our last morning of our camping trip. For breakfast, my Hubby pours the boiling purified water into packages of dehydrated food and prepares a hot breakfast for us.  
It’s early afternoon by the time we have cleaned up, packed up, and begin the 2.2 mile hike back to our car. The afternoon is warm and the backpack is heavy on my shoulders. When we reach the picnic area, I happily drop my backpack next to our car. I’m more than ready to return to civilization. Three nights of camping was a compromise during this trip – I like the creature comforts of a hotel room; Hubby likes the solitude of wilderness camping. Right now, it’s time for a hot shower and a real hot meal. Canyon area – here we come!

Over the years, my Hubby and I have driven and hiked through Yellowstone’s many scenic natural areas. No matter how many times I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing its ever-changing scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:
Yellowstone: Fountain Paint Pot Nature Trail
Yellowstone: Fountain Flat Drive & Beyond
Grand Loop Road - Upper Loop (coming soon)
Grand Loop Road - Lower Loop (coming soon)  

Planning a visit to Yellowstone? Food and lodging options are available inside the park and in the towns just outside the park (West Yellowstone, Gardiner, and Cooke City/Silver Gate – all in Montana).. I strongly suggest making lodging reservations in advance. Yellowstone is a popular destination and “No Vacancy” signs are common especially during the peak summer months. Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I recommend checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

My best advice is this - don’t just drive through Yellowstone – experience it!

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience.
Inside Yellowstone: A Series of Short Videos

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone, please click on the following link:

Tuesday, June 19, 2018

Yellowstone: Touring the Black Sand Basin

This blog post is taking you to where there is black sand and beautiful blue water. No, I’m not talking about Hawaii. I’m talking about the Black Sand Basin in Yellowstone National Park – the world’s first National Park. The Black Sand Basin is part of Yellowstone’s Upper Geyser Basin which has the greatest concentration of geysers and thermal features in the world.    

Black Sand Basin is a small collection of colorful hot springs located on the south side of the road about half a mile from the Old Faithful Interchange. Since the 1890’s, it’s been called the Black Sand Basin because of the tiny obsidian fragments that make up the sand in this area.

What I like about the Black Sand Basin is its close proximity to Old Faithful, it isn’t as crowded, and it doesn’t take long to see it (about 10-15 minutes). We call places like this a “filler walk”. It’s near the end of the day and we want to do something but we don’t have a lot of time. Black Sand Basin is a perfect “filler walk”.
Map of Black Sand Basin
After we park the car, the first thing we see is Cliff Geyser. Cliff Geyser was named in 1872 for its location at the edge of Iron Creek and the cliff-like wall that separates it from the creek. During our visit, Cliff Geyser was actively splashing bursts of water into the air. It can erupt as high as 35-50 feet.
 Cliff Geyser
We continue our walk by crossing the footbridge over Iron Creek. The rusty-colored banks are caused by reddish-brown algae that thrive in this environment.
Iron Creek near the footbridge
We take a short spur trail to the left where we find Emerald Pool (27’x38’). Over the years, the water temperature in this hot spring has decreased. This caused changes of bacteria and algae growth which, in turn, resulted in a change of color. Today, the center of the pool still reflects a beautiful blue-green but the edges have turned orange and brown. Based on this past activity, it is possible if the water temperature continues to decrease, the pool may eventually lose its emerald color.   
Emerald Pool
Near Green Spring is a grassy area with a woods and mountain behind it. Here I find a beautiful blue bird perched on top of a broken branch. During a sunset walk, I watch a coyote run through this area.
Blue Bird near Green Spring
Rainbow Pool (100’x130’) got its name because the edges of the pool were colorful – like a rainbow.  
   Rainbow Pool
Sunset Lake (145’x191’) is a shallow pool of blue water with a colorful edge of yellow and orange bacteria and algae. In 1887, this hot spring was referred to as “Sunshine Lake”.
 Sunset Lake
Moonrise over Sunset Lake
Opalescent Pool (28’x55’) was once a boiling spring then it went dry. In the 1950’s, water flooded into the dry pool and surrounding area killing the lodgepole pine. Notice the white color around the base of the tree trunks. Over time, this silica compound may contribute to the creation of a petrified forest.
Opalescent Pool & Lodgepole Pine
Located near Opalescent Pool, Spouter Geyser is a fountain-type geyser with frequent eruptions shooting 5-7 feet high.   The sinter crater edges the pool.   
Spouter Geyser
Black Sand Basin isn’t like the black sand beaches found in Hawaii and its Caribbean-blue colored pools of water are too hot to go for a swim; but, this basin’s black sand and blue hot springs will offer visitors an experience that is uniquely Yellowstone.

No matter how many time I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing its ever-changing scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:

Planning a visit to Yellowstone? Food and lodging options are available inside the park and in the towns just outside the park (West Yellowstone, Gardiner, and Cooke City/Silver Gate – all in Montana).. I strongly suggest making lodging reservations in advance. Yellowstone is a popular destination and “No Vacancy” signs are common especially during the peak summer months. Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I recommend checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

My best advice is this - don’t just drive through Yellowstone – experience it!

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience:.

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone, please click on the following link:

Monday, June 18, 2018

Yellowstone: It's Cookin' in the Biscuit Basin

Welcome to Yellowstone National Park where its majestic mountains, colorful canyon walls, and thousands of thermal features all partner to create its natural beauty. Yellowstone is the one place in the world where you can find the greatest concentration of geysers.

In my last post, I shared a walk through the Upper Geyser Basin (Old Faithful area). In this post, I will see what’s cookin’ in the Biscuit Basin.

The Biscuit Basin is located along the Grand Loop Road about three miles north of Old Faithful. In the 1880’s, Biscuit Basin got its name from the biscuit-like formations that were found around the edges of Sapphire Pool. In 1959, an earthquake shook the area causing Sapphire Pool to begin erupting. As a result of the eruptions, most of the “biscuits” were literally “blown away”. Still, the basin is worth taking the time to walk around it.
Map of Biscuit Basin (part of the Upper Geyser Basin)
My hubby parks the car and we walk across the footbridge that crosses the Firehole River. Early fur-trappers referred to this river as the “Firehole” because of the hot geyser water that flowed into the river.
Firehole River & Biscuit Basin
The Biscuit Basin has an easy half mile loop trail. This geyser basin may be small in size but some of its thermal features make this a “must see” stop.  As always, we'll be following the boardwalk trail which provides a safe route to view the geyser basin.  

As soon as we cross the footbridge, we see several pools on our right. They are identified as Black Opal Pool, Black Diamond Pool and Wall Pool.

Located closest to the river is Black Opal Pool. It hasn’t erupted in decades but it is still an eye-catching thermal feature.   
 Black Opal Pool
Black Diamond Pool is the second pool.  In 2006, it erupted to a height of 80 feet.   Today, all is quiet.
Black Opal Pool (foreground) & Black Diamond Pool (background)
Just down the boardwalk trail is Sapphire Pool. This hot spring is considered the gem of the Biscuit Basin. It was named in the 1880’s because of its brilliant sapphire color.   
Sapphire Pool
We can’t help but notice the colorful run-off channel from Sapphire Pool. So, what makes these pretty colors? The yellow is from sulfur, the red is from iron oxide, and other bright colors are caused by algae and bacteria.
Sapphire Pool Run-Off Channel
Colors in the Biscuit Basin
At this point, the loop part of the trail begins. Most people tend to go in a clockwise direction. So, we follow the flow of foot traffic. Also, we want to get a better view of Jewel Geyser while it is erupting.

Jewel Geyser erupts every 5-10 minutes releasing bursts of water from 10-30 feet lasting a minute or so. These bursts may be repeated anywhere from one to five times during its eruption. Jewel Geyser received its name because of the pearl-like sinter beads formed around the vent. I didn’t know what “sinter” was so I checked it out on Wikipedia. Sintering is: “the process of compacting and forming a solid mass of material by heat or pressure without melting it to the point of liquefaction”. I learn something new everyday!
Jewel Geyser
Across from Jewel Geyser is Shell Spring. It doesn’t take a lot of imagination to see how this thermal feature got its name. During our visit, Shell Spring was bubbling with activity for quite awhile.
Shell Spring
We continue walking the curve in the boardwalk trail making our way to Avoca Spring.
Boardwalk Trail
Since the 1959 earthquake, Avoca Spring has become active shooting streams of water in different directions. During our visit, we see a lot of bubbling water.
Avoca Spring
Silver Globe Spring is a hot spring located immediately south (and attached to) Avoca Spring. Zygomatic Arch (named in 1887) is a sinter (there’s that word again!) arch in and over Silver Globe Spring. I have heard these types of arches are rare.
 Avoca Spring & Silver Globe Spring
Zygomatic Arch
The trail to Mystic Falls begins here near Avoca Spring. I’ll share our hike to Mystic Falls in my blog post on Yellowstone waterfalls. In the meantime, look to the left of that trail to see West Geyser. While it rarely erupts, the pool presents a uniquely shaped thermal feature. I think it looks like a weirdly shaped fish.   At times, the “tail” may be dry and white with only the imprint of it visible.
West Geyser
Putting my vivid imagination aside, we keep walking around the loop trail to Mustard Springs. There are actually two springs – East and West. Again, they were given this name for the obvious reason - the mustard colored lining of their craters. Currently, East Mustard Spring is the active geyser while West Mustard Spring is an inactive, dry spring.
East Mustard Spring
All along the boardwalk trail we can see examples of how Mother Nature is cookin’ in the Biscuit Basin.  It’s time to return to the car. Across the road are some more thermal features but we haven’t explored that area yet. It will have to wait for a future visit.
   
No matter how many time I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing its ever-changing scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:

Planning a visit to Yellowstone? Food and lodging options are available inside the park and in the towns just outside the park (West Yellowstone, Gardiner, and Cooke City/Silver Gate – all in Montana). I strongly suggest making lodging reservations in advance. Yellowstone is a popular destination and “No Vacancy” signs are common especially during the peak summer months. Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I recommend checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

My best advice is this - don’t just drive through Yellowstone – experience it!

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience.

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone, please click on the following link: