Sunday, June 17, 2018

Yellowstone: A Geyser Gazers Guide to the Upper Geyser Basin

There are very few places in the world that are as diverse as Yellowstone National Park. Yellowstone has it all … from Artist Paint Pot to Zygomatic Arch … from majestic mountains to thundering waterfalls … don’t just drive through the Park – experience it!
There is plenty to see and do. Since the geyser basins are easy walking, I’ll start with the Upper Geyser Basin (the Old Faithful area). The first thing I do is stop at the Visitor Center/Gift Shop and go through the Exhibit Hall which offers lots of information on geysers. Browsing through the Exhibit Hall and watching a video in the theater is a great way to spend a rainy day in the Park.
Visitor Center
Visitor Center Exhibit on Geysers
In the gift shop, I purchased two things – a small stuffed black bear (I named her Ursula) and a brochure titled “A Guide to the Upper Geyser Basin” which included the Biscuit and Black Sand Basins. I’ll refer to them in another post.    
Ursula at the Upper Geyser Basin
Map of the Upper Geyser Basin
Next, I stop at the Park Ranger desk. During the summer months, they have a list of predictable geysers showing a time frame with their “best guess” on eruption times.
Daily Geyser Prediction Times
Using that list and my Upper Geyser Basin map, I organize my geyser gazing agenda.. With a little luck, I will be in the right place at the right time to enjoy seeing as many geysers erupt as possible.  Each geyser is unique in its size and duration.  It’s incredible to think that the Upper Geyser Basin contains the largest concentration (about 25%) of geysers in the world … all in about two square miles.
It’s time to go for a walk. It’s a little over a mile hike from the Visitor Center to Daisy Geyser or Morning Glory Pool.  I don’t want to end my day dehydrated or sun burned, so, I bring plenty of water, sunscreen, sunglasses, and a camera with me (a small daypack makes everything easy to carry).

During my actual visits, I raced from geyser to geyser … and they weren’t always close to me … and I didn’t see them all in one visit either (dates range from 1989 to present). For blogging purposes, I am showing the geysers I have seen through the years in the order I found them along the boardwalk trails.

I walk out of the Visitor Center where Old Faithful is located. Considered one of the “must see” things in Yellowstone, it was named in 1870 for its regular eruptions. Contrary to popular belief, It does not erupt every 60 minutes (its average interval is 75-100 minutes). In the early years, trash was thrown into the geyser. This thoughtless behavior clogged the geyser’s tube which ultimately disrupted the eruption pattern. We’ve learned from our mistakes and such actions are now prohibited. Today, park visitors gather around the seating area near Old Faithful and watch with excitement “oohing” and applauding as the famous geyser erupts 130 feet (average eruption height) into the air.
Old Faithful Geyser (2010)
Next, I head down to Castle Geyser.   It received its name in 1870 because it resembled the ruins of an old castle or tower. The “turret” or “tower” is 125 feet in circumference and rises 20 feet above its base. On the average, it erupts every 10-12 hours. It begins with a 15-20 minute water phase reaching a height of 90 feet. The water phase is followed by a 30-40 minute steam phase. Watch for rainbows in the mist.
Castle Geyser (2014)
Castle Geyser with Beehive Geyser in Background (2018)
While I waited for Castle Geyser to erupt, I checked out a couple nearby thermal features. I walked across the paved trail to find Shield Spring.   
Shield Spring (2018)
A quick walk on the boardwalk trail next to Castle Geyser led me to Crested Pool. It was known by many different names during the early years of the Park. However, in 1927, the name Crested Pool became its official name.
Crested Pool (2018)
After Castle Geyser erupts, I have two options – go right (passing Crested Pool) and cross the “corkscrew” foot bridge to the other side of the Firehole River (near Grand Geyser) or …
Footbridge over Firehole River
continue going straight. I chose to keep going straight until I see a sign for Daisy Geyser. I turn left onto a spur trail where Daisy is located.   On the average, Daisy erupts to heights of 60-75 feet with an average eruption lasting 3-5 minutes. Its predicted eruption times can range between 2-3 hours. I wait a short 20 minutes before it erupts.
Daisy Geyser (2010)
Near Daisy Geyser is Comet Geyser and Splendid Geyser. An indicator for Daisy is to watch Splendid Geyser. If it is erupting then Daisy will not erupt.  
 Comet Geyser (2018)
Splendid Geyser (2018)
I continue walking down the spur trail to Punchbowl Spring. It was given this name in 1871 by early Yellowstone explorers.
Punchbowl Spring (2018)
A little farther down the trail is Black Sand Pool. This thermal feature is located closer to the Black Sand Geyser Basin. If you choose to see it from that geyser basin be careful crossing the road to access the trail
Black Sand Pool (2018)
I walk back to the main trail and turn left to nearby Grotto Geyser. At this point there is an intersection where I can go right and continue on the east side of the river. I’ll do that later. Right now, I stop to watch Grotto Geyser. It erupts 8-40 feet high in 2 to 12 hour intervals. In 1871, J. W. Barlow observed the geyser was “hollowed into fantastic arches with pillars and walls of almost indescribable variety.”  
Grotto Geyser (2014)
The Grotto Group includes Spa Geyser. In 1927, its official name was “Spa Pool”. However, after a number of eruptions that occurred after that year, the name was changed to “Spa Geyser”.
Spa Geyser (2018)
Continuing down the main trail, I arrive at a spur trail to Riverside Geyser. It is located on the inaccessible east bank of the Firehole River. However, it can be seen from a viewing area on the west side of the river. On the average, it erupts every 6.5 hours. Eruptions last for about 20 minutes shooting water up about 70 feet at a slight angle over the river.
Riverside Geyser (1992)
I continue walking down the trail and cross the Firehole River.  On my way to Morning Glory Pool, I pass a pretty blue pool called Spiteful Geyser. Eruptions are infrequent and it can be dormant for many years,
Spiteful Geyser (2018)
Near Spiteful Geyser are two more geysers – Fan and Mortar.

Fan, Mortar, and Spiteful Geysers (2018)
At the dead-end of the trail is Morning Glory Pool. In the 1880’s, this famous hot spring had a lovely white scalloped border. Again, in those early years, visitors broke off pieces of the scalloped border for souvenirs. Back then, the color of the water in the pool reminded visitors of the blue of a Morning Glory flower. The pool fell victim to vandalism and today only the center of the pool reflects that beautiful blue color. Now, it is referred to as “Fading Glory”. Despite its sad story, it is still worth seeing.
Morning Glory Pool (2010)
I walk back to the intersection near Grotto Geyser and turn left toward the Firehole River. Along this stretch of trail, I find Bijou Geyser and Giant Geyser (part of the Giant-Grotto Group). Bijou Geyser erupts almost continuously (sometimes shooting water as high as 15 feet). More importantly, Bijou is an indicator for Giant Geyser. When Bijou Geyser stops or pauses for two or more minutes, it might be an indicator that Giant Geyser is preparing to erupt. However, Giant Geyser eruptions are irregular and may not occur for years. When Giant Geyser isn’t erupting, you will see small splashes inside its cone.
Bijou Geyser (2010)
Giant Geyser (2010)
Boardwalk Trail looking back to Giant Geyser Observation Deck
Just before the footbridge over the Firehole River is Oblong Geyser. Oblong was named for the shape of its large oblong pool. When it erupts, the water flows almost directly into the Firehole River. Its eruptions last about five minutes. After an eruption, Oblong will eventually begin having 20 minute cycles where the water will rise and overflow and then drop beneath the overflow area. When the pool goes down, it is not visible from the boardwalk.
Oblong Geyser (2018)
Oblong Geyser (2018)
Footbridge over Firehole River
After I cross the footbridge, Chromatic Spring and Beauty Pool are on my left. These two hot springs are connected. When the water level in one rises and overflows; the water level in the other decreases.
Chromatic Spring (2014)
Beauty Pool (2010)
Trail along Chromatic Spring & Beauty Pool (2018)
The Upper Geyser Basin trail is dotted with many named and unnamed thermal features. Some of these features (like Castle Geyser and Morning Glory Pool) are major attractions. Others barely get noticed like Economic Geyser or Wave Spring..
Economic Geyser (2018)
Wave Spring (2018)
Boardwalk Trail (2018)
As I near Grand Geyser, I notice a crowd is gathering. It should erupt within the next hour. I take a seat and wait for maybe 30 minutes and then it happens. It is truly a delightful waterworks display and a real crowd-pleaser. Grand Geyser bursts columns of water as high as 100-200 feet with the eruption lasting on the average of 9-16 minutes. Its interval time between eruptions is from 6-15 hours. However, Grand Geyser has some pre-eruption indicators. Nearby Vent Geyser and Turban Geyser share the same plumbing system with Grand Geyser. Turban Geyser is the indicator. About every 7-22 minutes, Turban splashes about for about 5 minutes. A seasoned geyser gazer is sitting next to me and explains what will happen before Grand Geyser erupts. It’s all in the water level. When Turban is erupting, the water level in Grand's pool will drop. If Grand's pool water level doesn't appear to drop, watch for a ripple of waves on Grand's pool. This usually signals Grand is preparing to erupt. Once Grand Geyser starts to erupt Vent Geyser will join the show shooting water 35-70 feet in the air. It’s a triple delight watching this geyser.
Grand Geyser (2010)
Vent & Turban Geysers (2010)
After this Grand display, I notice nearby West Triplet Geyser is bubbling.
West Triplet Geyser (2010)
Near the connector trail that goes to the corkscrew bridge and Castle Geyser, I find the playful Spasmodic Geyser.  During my visit, this geyser appeared to be in a perpetual state of bubbling.
Spasmodic Geyser (2018)
I take the connector trail to Sawmill Geyser. In the 1870’s and 1880’s it was noted that this geyser had a whistling or grinding sound like a sawmill. Sawmill’s eruptions are highly variable and affected by the other geysers in the Sawmill Group.
Sawmill Geyser (2006)
Near Sawmill Geyser is Churn Geyser, Tardy Geyser, and South Scalloped Spring.
 Churn Geyser (2018)
Tardy Geyser (2018)
South Scalloped Spring (2018)
I walk the connector trail back to the main trail where I find the Belgian Pool. It is part of the Sawmill Group. At one time, this hot spring was known as “Oyster Spring”. I think it looks like an oyster shell, don’t you? No one really knows how it got its name – Belgian Pool.
Belgian Pool (2018)
begin walking toward Geyser Hill passing Liberty Pool. This hot spring is also part of the Sawmill Group. It was named on July 4, 1887 honoring the date of its first observed eruption.
Liberty Pool (2018)
As I move closer to the Lion Geyser Group, I see North Goggles Geyser and Goggles Spring.
North Goggles Geyser (2018)
Goggles Spring (2018)
The Lion Geyser Group consists of four geysers (Lion, Lioness, Big Cub, and Little Cub). The name was given to the geysers in the 1880’s because of the growling sound made during eruptions.
Lion Geyser Group from Observation Point (1989)
Lion Geyser Group (2018)
As the boardwalk gently curves around the Lion Group, I see the pretty Heart Spring.
Heart Spring (2018)
I continue walking down the trail toward Beehive Geyser. On my way, I pass Arrowhead Spring, Depression Geyser, and an active but unnamed thermal feature near Beehive. 
  Trail near Heart Spring
Arrowhead Spring (2018)
Depression Geyser (2018)
Unnamed Thermal Feature near Beehive Geyser (2018)
An obvious geyser indicator is when you see a crowd gathering. That’s what happened as I neared Beehive Geyser. It is exciting to watch this powerful geyser in action. Eruptions last about five minutes and soar up 190 feet high. It got its name because the four-foot tall, narrow cone resembles a beehive.  
 Beehive Geyser (2018)
Beehive Geyser Cone (2018)
The boardwalk trail curves around and passes Anemone Geyser. The geyser erupts frequently for a brief 20-30 seconds and then the vent drains.
 Trail looking back at Beehive Geyser Observation Area
 Anemone Geyser - Active (2018)
Anemone Geyser - Inactive (2018)
Boardwalk Trail
I continue walking until I reach a fork in the trail.  I can stay right and return to Old Faithful or I can go left to Observation Point.  I take the left path and hiked the half mile trail to Observation Point. The trail is short but there are some steep sections with switchbacks (160 feet elevation change).  At the “T” intersection is a sign indicating Solitary Geyser is 3/10’s of a mile to the left and Observation Point is 1/10th of a mile to the right.  I turn to the right and follow the trail.
 Fork in Trail to Observation Point
Switchbacks on Trail to Observation Point
"T" Intersection
Trail to Observation Point
I arrive at the overlook for a panoramic view of the Old Faithful area. Sure wished I would have checked the eruption schedule for Old Faithful. All is quiet right now.  
Observation Point View
I return to the “T” intersection and decide to go see Solitary Geyser. It’s a pleasant walk through the forest to an open area where I find Solitary Geyser. It erupts about every four to eight minutes to a height of six feet with each eruption lasting about one minute.  During my visit, there was a sound like a deep burp and then a big circle of water burst at the surface.  That was it.  
Trail to Solitary Geyser
Solitary Geyser (2018)
During my 2018 visit, a portion of the Observation Point Loop Trail was closed. So, I retraced my steps back to the main trail.  By now, I noticed the trail is different.  It is an eco-friendly pavement made possible by a donation from Michelin Corporation Foundation. I thought walking on it was easier on my feet.
Eco-Friendly Walkway
I crossed the Firehole River and began walking toward Old Faithful.  Along the way, I see a little fall color and some geyser run-off heading toward the Firehole River.
Fall Color near Firehole River
I thought I would be done seeing thermal features but I was wrong. I found the Blue Star Spring and the Chinese Spring not too far from the Old Faithful Cafeteria.   
 Blue Star Spring (2018)
Chinese Spring (2018)
Chinese Spring (2018)
To maximize our time for geyser gazing here at the Upper Basin, we usually spend a couple of nights at either Old Faithful Inn or the Snow Lodge.

Built in 1904, the Old Faithful Inn is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Even if you don’t stay overnight here, you should step inside and see the massive stone fireplace and the balconies that encircle the lobby. The Inn offers food, lodging, and a gift shop.
Old Faithful Inn - Exterior & Interior
Completed in 1999, the Snow Lodge is a full service hotel (lodging, dining, and a gift store). Beautiful wood beams offer a rustic appearance but the rooms are modern and comfortable. Inside the Park, the Snow Lodge and the Mammoth Hotel are the only two lodging options offered during the winter months.
 Snow Lodge Exterior & Interior
No matter how many times I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing the scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience.   

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone National Park, please click on the following link:

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