Tuesday, November 27, 2018

Whatta Falls - Waterfalls in Yellowstone NP

Yellowstone National Park is filled with incredible scenery and natural wonders. While geysers and wildlife are synonymous with Yellowstone, the hundreds of waterfalls located within its 2.2 million acres are also part of the wild and wonderful beauty that is Yellowstone. Many of the waterfalls remain unnamed; however, Yellowstone has at least 45 named waterfalls and cascades. Some waterfalls can be seen from the road – like Firehole Falls. Others may require hiking the trails to see them – like Union Falls. From powerful to delicate – each waterfall is unique in its height, width, water volume, and the type of waterfall it is.

Yellowstone’s most popular waterfalls are the easily accessible waterfalls located on or near the road (like Firehole Falls, Tower Fall, Gibbon Falls, Kepler Cascades, Undine Falls, and, of course, the Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River).

However, many of Yellowstone’s waterfalls are located in the backcountry within the Bechler area (southwest region of the park). Also known as “Cascade Corner”, this part of the park is wet and wild and overflowing with an abundant number of waterfalls. The best way to see one of these waterfalls is to do a day hike or do a backpacking trip for a more extensive waterfall experience.

Considering the number of waterfalls there are in Yellowstone, this blog post barely begins to boast about these bountiful beauties.  I’m gong to present the ones we’ve seen in alphabetical order.
NPS Map Showing Waterfall Locations
Cave Falls:
According to my October 2011 trip notes, we drove down a muddy, dirt road for 19 miles to its dead-end where the Cave Falls parking lot is located (Bechler region in the southwest corner of the Park).
 Unpaved Road to Cave Falls
  Trail to Cave Falls
It’s an easy 3/10’s of a mile walk along the Falls River to see the falls. What makes Cave Falls impressive isn’t its 20’ height but its width. At 250 feet wide, it is probably the Park’s widest waterfall.
 Cave Falls View from Cave (1989)
Cave Falls (2011)
The falls were named in the early 1920’s because of the small cave found at the base of the falls. A collapse in the cave occurred sometime after our 1989 visit. The “cave” is now closed to the public.

Crystal Falls:
While we have visited Yellowstone repeatedly over the years, we still manage to find new things. In 2018, we discovered Crystal Falls. Actually, Cornelius Hedges of the Washburn expedition discovered the falls in 1870. However, these falls are often overlooked because they are located in the Canyon area of Yellowstone where it has to compete with the popular Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River.

In this quiet setting, Cascade Creek drops 129 feet to create the lovely, tiered Crystal Falls. From this view point, we can’t see the base of the falls because of the trees. Also, during our September visit, we were glad to see some water running in the falls. I’m guessing the water flow would be greater in the spring/early summer.   
Crystal/Cascade Creek Falls (2018)
From the Brink of the Upper Falls, it’s an easy and short walk to view Crystal Falls.  From the parking lot, walk safely along the roadside to where the North Rim Trail is located. At the trail sign, keep right and go a short distance to the overlook.   Crystal Falls will be on your left.

Fairy Falls:
We visited Fairy Falls in late September of 2010. For a detailed description on our hike to Fairy Falls, please click on the link “Hiking Yellowstone: Fairy Falls & Imperial Geyser” at the end of this post.

For now, let me say that Fairy Creek drops an impressive 197 feet (the fourth highest named waterfall in the Park) from a rocky ledge into a shaded pool. As the water falls, it spreads over the rocky alcove creating a delicate and magical appearance. Captain J. W. Barlow named the falls in 1871 for its graceful beauty.  
Fairy Falls (2010)
Fairy Falls
Firehole Falls:
Firehole Falls are located on the Firehole River along the one-way Firehole Canyon Road. There is limited parking at the falls area but the 40-foot high cascade-type waterfall can be seen from a car window. For more information on the scenic Firehole Canyon Drive and Falls, please click on the link at the end of this post.
Firehole Falls (2014)
Gibbon Falls:
The Gibbon River drops 84 feet to create Gibbon Falls. This fan-type waterfall was discovered in 1872 by members of the second Hayden survey. It appears the falls were named after the river.
Gibbon Falls (2011)
The falls are located along the Grand Loop Road between Madison and Norris Junctions. Before there was limited parking and this area was highly congested. In more recent years, the area has been redesigned to provide more parking and offer a gently sloping paved walking trail to several view points.

Kepler Cascades:
Located on the Firehole River, Kepler Cascades drops 150 feet in a set of multiple cascades. When we travel the Grand Loop Road (between West Thumb Geyser Basin and Old Faithful), we often stop here. The wooden viewing platform is close to the roadside pullout. It’s a quick and easy stop.
Kepler Cascades (2009)
In 1881, Park Superintendent Norris named this cascade for 12-year old Kepler Hoyt who toured Yellowstone that year with his father, John Hoyt (Governor of the Wyoming Territory).

Lewis Falls:
About 11 miles north of Yellowstone’s South Entrance is Lewis Falls. They are located on the Lewis River just south of Lewis Lake. A pullout and parking area offer easy viewing of this 30-foot high cascade-type waterfall.

The falls were named after Meriwether Lewis who (along with William Clark) explored the uncharted western United States from 1803-1807.   
Lewis Falls (2009)
Lost Creek Falls:
The 3/10’s of a mile long trail to Lost Creek Falls begins behind Roosevelt Lodge (non-guests of the Lodge should park at the roadside parking lot near the Lodge’s entrance). Our walk through the shady forest involves about 100 feet in elevation change. The dirt trail follows Lost Creek which was named in 1878 by Geologist William Holmes. During our early October visit, we had the trail to ourselves. At that time, the 40’ high fall had a low water flow and trees obscured our view of the lower portion of the falls.  
Trail and Lost Creek
Lost Creek Falls (2018)
Lower Falls:
At 308-feet, the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River are the highest in the Park. As a comparison, they are 131 feet taller than Niagara Falls (although Niagara Falls is wider).

The Lower Falls can be seen from a number of view points along the Canyon’s North Rim Drive (Brink of the Lower Falls, Lookout Point, Grand View Point, and Inspiration Point). At Inspiration Point there is a handicap accessible trail (redesigned and reopened in 2018) to a viewing platform.

The Brink of the Lower Falls offers an excellent view of the top of the falls. Did you notice the green color in the water? It’s the result of a nick in the rock at the top of the falls which causes the water to be deeper at that spot. The lack of air prevents the water from becoming foamy making the water look a dark green.
Lower Falls (2009)
There are two view points along the South Rim Drive – Uncle Tom’s Trail and Artists Point. To view my photos and more information on each of the Canyon’s observation points, please click on the link “A Ton of Fun at the Canyon” at the end of this post.

Moose Falls:
Located 1.2 miles north of the Park’s South Entrance, Moose Falls (30’ high) is considered a roadside waterfall. Although, this plunge-type waterfall is best seen by taking a short trail down the hill near the edge of Crawfish Creek. In 1885, members of the Arnold Hague Geologic Survey named it Moose Falls because of the high concentration of moose found in the southern section of the Park. There is a small pullout for parking.   
Moose Falls (2009)
Mystic Falls:
The Little Firehole River drops 70’ to create Mystic Falls. This cascade-type waterfall was originally called “Little Firehole Falls” by the 1872 Hayden survey. By 1885, it was known as Mystic Falls.   

Mystic Falls (2011)
During our October 2011 visit, we drive to the Biscuit Basin parking lot where we access the trail to Mystic Falls (near Avoca Spring at the back of the basin). It’s late in the afternoon when we begin our 2.6 mile round trip hike to the falls (only 115 feet of elevation change). We hope we’ll get back to the car before nightfall. The bad news … it’s raining and that means it will get dark a little earlier tonight. We need to get moving! Because of the rain, the dirt trail through the lodgepole pine forest is muddy and we jump over a few mud puddles. As we climb a bit in elevation, the trail dries out and we walk along a ridge with the sounds of the river to our left. By the time we reach Mystic Falls, the setting sun is painting the sky in colorful shades of peach and pink. The misty fog creates an ethereal appearance to the area around the falls and the river. Meanwhile, a full moon is rising in the eastern sky. Thankfully, the moonlight helps to light the landscape during our return hike. As soon as we arrive at the Biscuit Basin boardwalk, the moon slips behind a layer of thick clouds and disappears for the rest of the night.   
Trail along Little Firehole River
First View of Mystic Falls
Rustic Falls:
Rustic Falls (on Glen Creek) is a 47’ high roadside waterfall located on the east side of the Grand Loop Road near the Golden Gate Bridge (south of Mammoth). There are a couple of pullouts with limited space along the roadside. Watch for traffic and pedestrians as the area can get a bit congested.
Rustic Falls (2018)
Rustic Falls (2014)
This fan-type waterfall was named in 1879 by P .W. Norris (Park Superintendent).

Silver Cord Cascade:
Silver Cord Cascade (on Surface Creek) is reported to plunge 1,000-1,200 feet down the canyon wall into the Yellowstone River. This horsetail-type waterfall was another recent discovery for us. Silver Cord Cascade, like Crystal Falls, is another canyon area waterfall that is often overlooked. Maybe that is because it requires a two mile hike (round trip) and the view across the canyon makes the thin ribbon of water appear distant whereas the Lower and Upper Falls provide closer viewing platforms. However, the trail through the lodgepole pine forest is a quiet walk offering a shady respite from the other busy and congested Canyon areas.

In my opinion, the easiest way to see Silver Cord Cascade is to hike the one mile trail that begins at the Glacial Boulder/Seven Mile Hole Trailhead. From the Canyon’s North Rim Drive, the trailhead is about 4/10’s of a mile before Inspiration Point. The parking area is on the left side of the road. If you pass the Glacial Boulder, you’ve gone too far.
Trailhead Sign
The dirt trail is easy to follow and fairly level. Near the beginning of the trail is a small stream with fallen logs for footbridges (or if you have long legs – jump). The trail climbs upwards toward the north rm offering peek-a-boo views of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River.   
Peek-A Boo Views of the Canyon
Near the one-mile point, we find the opening in the trees that provides us with a view across the canyon to Silver Cord Cascade. There aren’t any fences here. So, while we appreciate the undisturbed natural and scenic beauty that offers us, we never forget this – it’s not worth falling for a waterfall photo.   
Silver Cord Cascade (2018)
In the Park’s early years, this cascade was called “Sliding Cascade” and “Silverthread Fall”. In 1885, “Silver Cord Cascade” became the accepted name.

Tower Fall:
In 1870, members of the Washburn party were inspired by the towers and pinnacles that surrounded the waterfall. A vote was taken and the name Tower Fall was approved.

Tower Fall is located along the Grand Loop Road behind the Yellowstone General Store at Tower. Because this is a popular and easily accessible waterfall, the Tower Fall area is very busy. During peak season, parking may seem impossible.

We follow the short paved walkway leading to an overlook of the falls. From this viewpoint, we watch Tower Creek drop 132 feet. The dark and foreboding canyon area above Tower Fall is called Devil’s Den.
Tower Fall (2011)
Devil's Den (2011)
Undine Falls
Undine Falls is located along the Grand Loop Road between Mammoth and Tower (about four miles east of Mammoth). At Undine Falls, Lava Creek spills over the cliff and descends in two tiers. The upper tier drops 60 feet and the lower tier drops 38 feet. This roadside waterfall is easily accessible by a short walk to the overlook.
Undine Falls (2014)
In the early Park history, Undine Falls was known by different variations of the name “Gardiner Falls”. In 1885, Arnold Hague (geologist) named them Undine Falls. Undine is defined as “a group of female water spirits”. Undines were believed to live around waterfalls.

Union Falls:
Union Falls is located on Mountain Ash Creek in the Bechler region of the Park. At 250 feet high, it is the second highest waterfall in Yellowstone. In the mid-1880’s, members of the Hague Geological Survey Party named them Union Falls due to the joining of two rivers at the brink of the falls.

Our hike to Union Falls began at the roadside trailhead on Grassy Lake Road (southwest corner of the park). The trail is rated as moderate to difficult. According to my August 1989 trip notes, the 16 mile round-trip hike involved 950 feel in elevation change and required us to ford a couple of streams (fortunately they weren’t too deep). We hit the trail early in the morning … and so did about 100 boy scouts. In this often secluded area of the park, we were not alone. The dirt trail passes through forests and ultimately ends at a clearing that offers a full view of the falls. This was a long day hike but well worth the effort it took to see these impressive falls.
Union Falls (1989)
Upper Falls:
Along the one-way Canyon’s North Rim Drive and the South Rim Drive there are several vantage points for viewing the Upper Falls of the Yellowstone River. The Upper Falls drop 109 feet making them pretty impressive and a “must see” when visiting the Park.
Upper Falls (2018)
To view my photos and more information on each of the Canyon’s view points, please click on the link “A Ton of Fun at the Canyon” at the end of this post.

Virginia Cascades
Located about 2.5 miles east of Norris Junction, Virginia Cascade is a 60-foot long slope on the Gibbon River. This roadside cascade is found on the one-way Virginia Cascade Road (a 2.5 mile spur road between Norris and Canyon). In the late 1800’s, this stretch of road was part of the original Grand Loop Road (before the present day Grand Loop Road was built). Today, parking along the narrow paved road is limited and the heavily forested area makes it difficult to view the entire falls from this road.   
Virginia Cascades (1987)
Wraith Falls:
Wraith Falls are located about six miles east of Mammoth along the Grand Loop Road. A relatively easy (about 100 feet in elevation gain) and short trail (one mile round trip) provides us with a pleasant walk through open meadows and forest to the base of the falls. From this view, we see Lupine Creek sliding down about 100’ to create Wraith Falls.
Wraith Falls (2005)
They were named in 1885.  The reason is not known but the streams of white water might have reminded those early surveyors of a ghost (a “wraith” is an apparition or ghost).

During our September 2005 visit, Wraith Falls were barely visible. They had a thin and wispy ghost-like appearance…disappearing a bit more with each passing day of the autumn season.  In its "full glory", the waterfalls were described as a "white bulb-shaped gusher".  This description got me to thinking about the various types of waterfalls.  

I did some research on the Internet. Using Wikipedia as my main source, I found the following types:
  • Ledge waterfalls descend vertically over a cliff while maintaining partial contact with the rock. This type includes the Block (or Sheet) waterfall which has the classic rectangle shape and descends from a wide stream or river creating a thunderous falls.
  • Plunge waterfalls are fast moving to the point where the descending water does not have any contact with the face of the rock. The highest plunge-type waterfall in Yellowstone is the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River.
  • Horsetail waterfalls maintain contact with the rock most of the time and may look like a horse’s tail. The highest horsetail-type waterfall in Yellowstone is Silver Cord Cascade. This category also includes fan-types which spread horizontally as it glides down the rocky slope giving the appearance of an upside down fan. Yellowstone’s Union Falls is a fan-type waterfall. Another waterfall type in this category is the Ribbon waterfall which has a very narrow stream of water that is much taller than it is wide. An example of a Ribbon type waterfall would be Fairy Falls in Yellowstone.
  • Cascades have water descending in a series of rock steps or a series of small waterfalls along a river. Yellowstone has many cascades such as Virginia Cascades.
  • Tiered waterfalls (aka multi-step or staircase falls) are a series of waterfalls all about the same size with each “step” having its own plunge pool.
  • Cataract falls are powerful and thunderous sounding.
  • Segmented waterfalls have distinctly separate water flows with two or more parallel segments as the water descends. The natural split in the water flow is usually caused by a rock.
  • Frozen waterfalls have some element of ice or snow. If you visit Yellowstone in the winter, you will definitely find this type of waterfall.
  • Moulin waterfalls are found in glaciers. While the forces of long-ago glaciers are evident in Yellowstone’s landscape, there aren’t any active glaciers in Yellowstone anymore.
No matter how many times I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing its ever-changing scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:

Planning a visit to Yellowstone? Food and lodging options are available inside the park and in towns just outside the park (West Yellowstone, Gardiner, and Cooke City/Silver Gate – all located in Montana). I highly recommend making lodging reservations in advance. Yellowstone is a popular destination and “No Vacancy” signs are common especially during the peak summer months. Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I suggest checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

My best advice is this - don’t just drive through Yellowstone – experience it!

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience.

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone, please click on the following link:

Thursday, November 8, 2018

Yellowstone: West Thumb Geyser Basin - Two Thumbs Up

Yellowstone National Park is home to numerous geyser basins. Among them is the popular West Thumb Geyser Basin It is a small but impressive collection of hot springs, pools, mud pots, and fumaroles located on the shore of Yellowstone Lake.
NPS Map
In 1870, the Washburn expedition described Yellowstone Lake as being shaped like a human hand with the fingers spread apart and the West Bay of Yellowstone Lake represented the thumb.

The geyser basin offers two loop trails. The outer loop trail is ½ mile in length and the inner loop is ¼ mile long. We will be walking a combination of the two loop trails.
NPS Map
From the parking lot, we begin walking the trail near the southwestern corner of the basin. There are a number of blue-colored pools in this area which are not on the map – Mimulus Pools (aka Painted Pools). Again, the beauty of Yellowstone is its constantly changing landscape. Depending on the water level and time of the year, these pools may be nearly dry. During our October visit, we see the area dotted with beautiful blue pools in various sizes and shapes.
 Mimulus Pools (2014)
Painted Poola (2014)
The boardwalk trail splits. A right turn is the inner loop through the center of the basin. We will get to that later. For now, we continue going straight. A short distance later is a spur trail leading to a view point for Twin Geysers (one geyser with two vents). This geyser goes through long periods of dormancy. During those inactive years, the geyser bubbles. That is how we see it during our visit.
Twin Geysers (2014)
We continue walking the trail toward Yellowstone Lake. Along the way, we stop to see Abyss Pool. Named for its impressive depth (53 feet) and water clarity, Abyss Pool is a hot spring that measures 30’ x 57’ in size.  
 Abyss Pool (2011)
Abyss Pool (2014)
As we get closer to the lake, we look to the left for a view of the rugged shoreline along Yellowstone Lake.  
Yellowstone Lake Shoreline (2011)
On our right, we see Black Pool (40’ x 75’ and 30’ deep). Today, this hot spring is a beautiful blue color. At one time, a lower water temperature gave this pool a dark color which is how the pool got its name.  
Black Pool (2011)
At this point, the boardwalk trail parallels the lakeshore. Big Cone is on our left. Big Cone is a cone-type geyser with a 31-inch vent.  Given Big Cone’s close proximity to Yellowstone Lake and the potential for higher water levels, there may be times when the cone is completely submerged.
Big Cone Geyser (2011)
Next is the geyser basin’s most famous hydrothermal feature - Fishing Cone (aka "Chowder Pot" and "Fish Pot").  The 1870 Washburn party was the first to record the “cooking on a hook” practice. After catching a fish in Yellowstone Lake, the fish was left on the hook and dipped into the boiling pool to cook. This practice is now prohibited.  Like Big Cone, there may be times when Fishing Cone is underwater too.
Fishing Cone (2011)
Another lakeshore thermal feature is Lakeshore Geyser. It too can be covered by water until later in the summer when the water level lowers and the crater is exposed. It experiences long periods of dormancy.   
 Lakeshore Geyser (2011)
Lakeside Boardwalk Trail
On the right side of the trail is Lakeside Spring and Venting Pool. As the water levels recede, these two thermal features become less showy. At least that was our experience when we saw them in October.
 Lakeside Spring (2005)
Venting Pool (2011)
The outer loop trail curves as we begin walking toward the parking lot. A short spur trail to the left takes us to two lovely pools - Seismograph Pool and Bluebell Pool. Prior to 1961, these two pools were called “Blue Pools”. It is speculated that the name change to Seismograph Pool had something to do with the impact on the area caused by the 1959 earthquake. A seismograph is an instrument that measures and records details of earthquakes.
Seismograph & Bluebell Pools (2009)
 Seismograph Pool (2011)
 Bluebell Pool (2011)
  Exhibit Sign
Now, we could continue walking the outer loop trail back to the parking lot but we want to see the thermal features along the inner loop through the Central Basin area. So, when the trail splits, we turn right and continue walking,

On our right we see the Thumb Paint Pots. Depending upon the amount of precipitation and groundwater levels, the mud pots can look like muddy water or appear to be thicker like pottery mud. When we saw them, groundwater had flooded the pots producing a bubbling spring.  
Hot Pool in Center of Thumb Paint Pots (2014)
The inner loop trail passes by several thermal features including Ledge Spring and Collapsing Pool. Water levels can vary in both. During our visit, both Ledge Spring and Collapsing Pool had low water levels. Collapsing Pool was named after the 1959 earthquake when a portion of the pool’s rim collapsed.    
Ledge Spring (2014)
 Collapsing Pool (2014)
This inner loop trail includes other thermal features such as Perculating Spring, Thumb Geyser, Perforated Pool, and Ephedra Spring. We obviously saw them but I must have neglected to photograph them. The next time I am at West Thumb Geyser Basin, I will make sure I get photos to add to this blog.

Blue Funnel Spring (18 feet in diameter) is generally a beautiful blue pool with a ring of color around its edge. However, in the winter between 2013 and 2014, this spring drained. During our 2014 visit, the water level had not fully recovered.
Blue Funnel Spring (2014)
We finish walking the inner loop trail and return to the parking lot.  In addition to the historic Ranger Station, the parking lot area also includes restrooms and a picnic area.

We probably linger longer than the average park visitor because we read exhibit signs, take photos, and maybe stop to sit on one of the benches to enjoy the view.  Still, I would recommend allowing 30-60 minutes to see West Thumb Geyser Basin. 

No matter how many times I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing its ever-changing scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:

Planning a visit to Yellowstone? Food and lodging options are available inside the park and in towns just outside the park (West Yellowstone, Gardiner, and Cooke City/Silver Gate – all located in Montana). I highly recommend making lodging reservations in advance. Yellowstone is a popular destination and “No Vacancy” signs are common especially during the peak summer months. Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I suggest checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

My best advice is this - don’t just drive through Yellowstone – experience it!

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience.

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone, please click on the following link: