An All American Road - Scenic UT 12

Utah’s Highway 12 is a scenic drive between US-89 (near Panguitch) and Torrey (ending at UT 24).  The paved road passes through Dixie National Forest, scenic overlooks, state parks, small towns, and the Red Canyon area.  The road offers easy access to Capitol Reef National Park (near Torrey, Utah) and Bryce Canyon National Park (near US-89).  In 2002, this 124 mile stretch of road was designated an “All-American Road”.   So I asked myself, “What is an All-American Road?”

According to Wikipedia, “The most scenic byways are designated All-American Roads, which must meet two out of the six intrinsic qualities (archeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, and scenic). The designation means they have features that do not exist elsewhere in the United States and are unique and important enough to be tourist destinations unto themselves. As of November 2010, there are 120 National Scenic Byways and 31 All-American Roads, located in 46 states (all except Hawaii, Nebraska, Rhode Island, and Texas."  

While many US-12 references cite mile markers from west to east, we will be travelling the road from east to west.  So my notes have the mile markers going from high (124 in Torrey) to low (00 at US-89).  

*Map - Utah's Scenic Byway 12

We arrive in Torrey, Utah (Mile 124) where we will be spending two nights at the historic Torrey Schoolhouse B&B Inn (150 N Center St).  Built in 1914, it operated as a school from 1917-1954.  It has been renovated into a luxurious and relaxing bed and breakfast while still keeping its school theme with three of its guest rooms named Reading, Writing, and Arithmetic.    

 Historic Torrey Schoolhouse B&B

Skipped School - Gone Fishin'

I love old schoolhouses.  The Torrey Log School/Church (1898-1917) is located on Main Street.    It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1993.   It is worth a quick stop to read the plaque and learn the history of this quaint building. 

Historic Log School/Church

If you have an interest in Utah's historic schools, I invite you to view my blog post by clicking on the following link:
Utah's Historic Schools

While here in Torrey a side trip to Capitol Reef National Park is a “must see” experience.  The scenic road has views of colorful canyons, historic buildings, and some imaginative rock formations.

Capitol Reef National Park Scenic Drive

Imaginative Rock Formations - Head of a a dinosaur (Triceratop)

Please refer to my blog post on Capitol Reef National Park for information and photos by clicking on the following link:

Capitol Reef NP

Before we begin our scenic drive, we make sure our gas tank is full, our camera batteries are charged, and we have plenty of water and food. 

 Entrance Sign near Torrey, UT

We cross the boundary into the Dixie National Forest (Mile 116).  During the course of driving the entire length of UT 12, we will cross this vast National Forest (almost two million acres) three different times - through the Teasdale District, the Escalante District, and the Powell District.  In the Teasdale District, we reach a summit of 9,600 feet and continue winding our way down to Boulder. 

 Dixie National Forest

Shortly after this stretch of road, we encounter a cow jam.  Locals are moving a herd of cattle down the middle of the road.  Traffic is backing up because of this.  We talk with someone working on the cattle drive and they confirm if you drive slowly the cows will part and let cars go by them.  So, my hubby takes the initiative and passes the line of waiting cars.  He slowly maneuvers our vehicle through the cows with a train of cars following us.  Apparently today’s cowboys ride ATV’s and not horses.

At the front of the Cattle Drive

The Anasazi State Park Museum (Mile 87) is located in Boulder but because of the cattle drive and traffic, we opt to skip it. 

Access to the Burr Trail (originally a cattle trail) is in Boulder.  The 66 mile long Burr Trail connects the town of Bounder, passes through the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and Capitol Reef National Park, and ends in the town of Bullfrog. 

Please refer to my blog post on Burr-Raving the Burr Trail for information and photos by clicking on the following link:

Burr-Raving the Burr Trail

We continue our scenic journey stopping at Larb Hollow Overlook (Mile 109) for a spectacular panoramic view of the mountains and remote valley. 

Larb Hollow Overlook

Arguably, the entire 124 miles of UT 12 offers stunning scenery but the 60 mile stretch of road between Boulder (Mile 85) and Cannonville (Mile 64) is breath-taking.  We take the time and enjoy the scenery. 

 Scenery along UT-12

At Mile 75 is the Calf Creek Recreation Area.  I was so tempted to hike the 6 mile (round trip) trail to Lower Calf Creek Falls (126’ drop).   But time and my energy level prohibited it from happening.  It’s just another reason to come back to this area on another visit.  

The Boynton Overlook (Mile 73) is one of my favorite stops.  I think the scenery and road through this area are outstanding.  If you need a cup of coffee, the Kiva Koffeehouse is near here.  It is a small place with a big view.

Boynton Overlook

Road near Boynton Overlook

Kiva Koffeehouse View

We stop at another overlook with an exhibit sign describing the building of the “Million Dollar Road”.  The CCC began work on the road in 1935.  It took five years to complete. 

Million Dollar View

On the outskirts of Escalante is the Hole-In-The-Rock Escalante Heritage Center.   There is a good exhibit about how the pioneers negotiated the last mile of the Hole-in-the Rock route (1880).  It took six weeks to widen the notch into a wagon trail.  The "longest mile" was a treacherous descent and it was used for two years before an alternate route was discovered.

 Hole-in-the-Rock Escalante Heritage Center

Display depicting wagons making the descent

We arrive in the town of Escalante and stop at the Visitor Center (Mile 59) for some road and slot canyon updates**.  We are told the road to Spooky and Peek-a-Boo Canyon is "drivable".  But because of recent rains, the last mile might be tough to negotiate.  So, we nix the slot canyons and inquire about other roads in the area.

Escalante Visitor Center

We are told the Hell's Backbone Scenic Backway is in good condition.  It is a 44 mile dirt road that connects the communities of Escalante and Boulder (no food, gas stations, or lodging along this road).  The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) completed this primitive dirt road in 1933.  We start by driving north on the Posey Lake Scenic Backway (Mile 61) which connects to the Hell’s Backbone Road.   Even though it is late in the fall season, we still see a few pockets of color from the yellow aspen leaves.  We arrive at my favorite part of the road - the Hell’s Backbone Bridge.  It spans a narrow ridge just wide enough for the bridge.  This is the third bridge to be built here.  In the 1960’s, the original wooden bridge was showing its age and was in need of repair.  It was replaced by a second bridge which was replaced in 2005 by the current bridge.  

Pockets of Fall Color

 Landscape along Hell's Backbone Scenic Backway

Hell's Backbone Bridge

We continue driving a little farther down Hell’s Backbone Road before we decide to retrace our route back to Escalante where we have a room at the Prospectors Inn (the only hotel that is open year round).  We ask some locals where a good place to eat is.  They recommend the pizza at the Escalante Outfitters. 

One mile west of the town of Escalante is Petrified Forest State Park (Mile 58).  I wished we would have time to visit this State Park because it offers an opportunity to see a Petrified Forest.  I’ll put this on my “to do” list for our next visit. 

We continue stopping at scenic overlooks.  At Mile 42, is the Blues Overlook (elevation 10,188’). Looking across from Powell Point, we can see "The Blues" (a badland of ancient gray-green colored shale). Above the "blue band" are the Pink Cliffs.

The "Blues" and the Pink Cliffs

With every twist and turn of the road we see another awesome scene.  I think we stopped at every overlook to take pictures.  Each pull-out tells some story about the landscape.  As we near the next summit (7,600’), we learn about dinosaurs and the fossils found in this area and the second Powell expedition.  

Road Scene on UT 12

Panoramic View at 7,600 feet

We drive through the small town of Henrieville (Mile 30).  Located on US-12, the old town schoolhouse (built in 1881) is now the Senior Center and Town Hall.

Old Town School - Henrieville

In Cannonville (Mile 25) we take a detour from US-12 to drive the Cottonwood Canyon Scenic Byway.  The first seven miles are paved to Kodachrome Basin State Park.  Like most of our trips, our time is limited and we need to pick and choose where to go.  We decide to skip the State Park – add that to my “to do” list for a future visit.

Canonville from UT-12

*Map - Cannonville Area

Kodachrome Basin State Park

At this point, the road pavement ends and the dirt road begins.  The road is dry and the weather is cooperating with beautiful blue skies.  So, we continue our scenic drive to Grosvenor Arch.   After we photograph Grosvenor Arch, we retraced our route back to Scenic Highway 12. 

 Cottonwood Canyon Road to Grosvenor Arch

 Grosvenor Arch is a double arch

We stop in the small town of Tropic (Mile 22) and buy some sandwiches for a picnic lunch later in Bryce Canyon National Park.  The park boundary to Bryce Canyon is still another 10 miles down US-12.

Once we enter the Park, we see a trailhead for Mossy Cave.  The cave trail is .8 mile hike (round trip) with a 200' elevation change. Along the trail, we see arches and rock spires.  It is a quiet walk. 

Mossy Cave

Mossy Cave Trail View

We continue on Hwy 12 turning at Hwy 63 toward the heart of Bryce Canyon National Park.  Here wind, water, and time have eroded sandstone cliffs into eerily shaped pillars that stand silent in time.  

Inspiration Point - Bryce Canyon National Park

Please refer to my blog post on Bryce Canyon National Park for more information and photos by clicking on the following link:

Bryce Canyon NP

We spend the night at the Best Western Plus (Ruby’s Inn) in Bryce Canyon City (just outside of Bryce Canyon National Park).  The hotel has an on-site restaurant. 

Today, we drive the last stretch of Utah’s Scenic Byway 12.  The Red Canyon area (Mile 2.7) features more hoodoos, spires, and pinnacles.  There are two tunnels along this stretch of road.  Next to the first tunnel is an exhibit on how the tunnels were built.  The Red Canyon Tunnels were officially opened on June 1, 1925.  We learn that the bright formations of Red Canyon are largely limestone and the colored hues of "rust" depend on the amount of iron in the rock. 

 Red Canyon Area

Red Canyon Tunnel

Shortly after we leave the Dixie National Forest the scenic highway ends at US-89.  

Visit www.scenicbyway12.com to print your PDF brochure on “A Route Guide to Scenic Byway 12”.

Highway 12 has something for everyone to enjoy - hiking, mountain biking, fishing, camping, off-road vehicle trails, winter skiing, and, of course, photographic opportunities are at every turn in the road.  

Food and lodging can be found in the small towns that dot the scenic drive but the options may be limited and/or seasonal.  Some pre-planning would be advised.  Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I recommend checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

For information and photos on other places we visited in southern Utah, I invite you to view my blog posts by clicking on the following links:
The Burr Trail
Goblin Valley State Park
Grafton - A BOO-tiful Spot for a Ghost Town
Arches NP

*Map images from “A Route Guide to Scenic Byway 12” produced by the Scenic byway 12 Foundation

** Before travelling any back road, visitors are advised to contact a local Visitor Center for current information on the area, weather, and road conditions.