Monday, August 8, 2016

High On Zion National Park

Utah’s Grand Circle Tour allows visitors a chance to see five U.S. National Parks (Zion, Bryce Canyon, Arches, Canyonlands, and Capitol Reef) all within easy driving distance from each other.  Stunning scenery, hiking/recreational opportunities, and memorable moments made this unique area of Utah the perfect destination for our two-week vacation in late October.
Located in southwestern Utah (USA), this 146,597 acre park was Utah’s first National Park (established on November 19, 1919).  

According to Wikipedia, “The Park’s unique geology includes mountains, canyons, buttes, mesas, monoliths, rivers, slot canyons, and natural arches.  A prominent feature of the 229-square-mile park is Zion Canyon, which is 15 miles long and up to half a mile deep, cut through the reddish and tan-colored Navajo Sandstone by the North Fork of the Virgin River.”
The Visitor Center should be one of the first places you go.  If you don’t have a park pass, you can purchase one at the Visitor Center. While you are here, Park Rangers can provide current information on road/trail closures, weather forecasts/flash flood warnings, and other important details for planning your visit.  For your own safety, always be prepared and alert to your surroundings.  

We enter Zion National Park through the east entrance via UT-9 (aka Mount Carmel Highway).  The Zion-Mount Carmel Highway took three years (1927-1930) to complete and includes two tunnels built through solid rock.  This year-round road connects the east side of the park to the south side of the Park and provides access to the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive.  The Zion–Mount Carmel Highway was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1987. 
UT-9 (aka Mount Carmel Highway)
East Entrance Sign
At the entrance station, ask for a park newspaper.  It is a valuable source of information about hiking, camping, backcountry recreation, large vehicle restrictions, and includes several maps.  Caution … stunning scenery ahead!

We follow the red paved road into the park.  The first named feature we see is Checkerboard Mesa (900’ high).   An interpretive sign explains how the unique checkerboard pattern was created.  “The scratches that run horizontal are the result of north to south winds while the vertical cracks come from thousands of years of weathering- freezing and thawing.” There is a parking lot with viewing areas making this a worthwhile stop.
Checkerboard Mesa
We drive through a short rock tunnel and continue until just before we reach the second tunnel.  Here is where we find the parking area to access the Canyon Overlook Trail.  This moderately-rated, one mile (round trip) hike has a 163' elevation change.            

Most of the elevation is at the beginning of the trail.  I use the metal hand rail to negotiate the uneven stone steps.  The trail levels out and we continue hiking to the overlook.  Along the way, we cross a foot bridge that hangs over the cliff.  The trail then passes through a shallow, “grotto-like” alcove.  
Foot Bridge
View From Alcove
Hanging Garden at back of Alcove
Trail Continues ...
On the other side of the alcove, the trail continues.  At this point, there is a short distance where the trail is very narrow (and no guard rails).  I walk sideways with my back hugging the rock wall and use my walking sticks for balance.
At times, the trail traverses slick rock and more stone steps.  After numerous photo stops, we finally reach the Canyon Overlook.  The canyon view is outstanding and we marvel at the road zig-zagging its way down to the canyon floor. 
Switchbacks on Zion-Mt Carmel Highway
We spend about 30 minutes here before we begin our hike back to our jeep.  When we reach the parking lot, we see six big horn sheep on the side of the mountain next to us. 
It is 6 p.m. by the time we drive through the second tunnel – complete with a couple of “windows” carved out of the rock wall.  This 1.1 mile long tunnel was completed in 1930 when large vehicles were less common.  As a result, access for oversized vehicles requires a special permit to allow them to pass through the tunnel without encountering opposing traffic.  For specific information regarding the types of vehicles that require this special permit and the time of day it is permitted, please click on the “Plan Your Visit” link (Park Newspaper) at the end of this blog post.  You should also know that bicyclists and pedestrians are not allowed in the tunnel. 
Oversize Vehicle at Tunnel
We follow the switchbacks down the mountain road to the valley.  Starting October 26, 2015, private cars were allowed to drive the Zion Canyon Scenic Road during the week (weekends still require shuttle bus service).  We decide to check on lodging availability for tonight at Zion Lodge. Unfortunately, it was fully booked for the next two nights.     
We drive to the Park’s south entrance.  Just outside the park boundary is the town of Springdale.  We get the last room at the Under the Eaves B&B. 
View from B&B's Backyard
A short distance from the B&B is the Bit & Spur Saloon where we have dinner.  They have outdoor seating on the porch.  Heat lamps help ward off the chill in the night air. The food and service was good. 

After a good night’s sleep, we make our plans for the day.  Since visitation in the Zion Canyon area is still high (and weekday shuttle bus service was reinstated), we decide to spend some time in the Kolob Canyons area.  The entrance and Visitor Center is located 45 miles north of Springdale and 17 miles south of Cedar City at Exit 40 on Interstate 15.
Kolob Canyons Entrance
Kolob Canyons Area Map
After a brief visit at the Visitor Center, we begin driving the seasonal, five-mile scenic road (Kolob Canyons Road).    We get distracted photographing the red rock landscape and road scenes … and yes, the surface of the pavement is really red which allows the road to blend in with its natural surroundings.  How cool is that? 
Zion's Red Roads
We stop and hike a bit of the Taylor Creek Trail. The trail is five miles round trip with 450' elevation change. The beginning of the trail is where most of the elevation change occurs. We go down into the canyon crossing Taylor Creek several times.  After hiking the trail for a while, we return to the parking lot and continue driving to the end of the road.
Taylor Creek Trail
The road ends at the Kolob Canyons View Point (elevation 6,185').  A panoramic view reveals Horse Ranch Mountain, Paria Point, Beatty Point, Nagunt Mesa, Timber Top Mountain, and Shuntavi Butte. 

We want to hike the Timber Creek Overlook Trail. This one mile (round trip) trail is rated moderate and has a 100' elevation change. "The trail follows a ridge to a small peak with views of Timber Creek, Kolob Terrace, and Mount Trumball."
Timber Creek Overlook Trail
Yikes! There have been several sightings of Mountain Lions here recently. We begin hiking the trail and keep a sharp lookout for anything unusual.  We enjoy the solitude as we walk this quiet trail.. 

At the end of the trail is a grand panoramic view of the area.  This should be a good sunset spot but the clouds are preventing that from happening.  I look to the west and notice a small slit of blue sky between the clouds and the mountain ridge.  Maybe we might see some warm light on the rock walls if the sun manages to break through those clouds. 
View from Timber Creek Overlook
It is after 6 pm and time to start hiking back to the parking lot.  We walk a short distance and notice the sun has broken through the clouds casting a warm golden glow on the rock walls. 
 Sunset in the Kolob Canyons Area
The light fades quickly as the sun moves behind the clouds.  Still, we managed to get a few photos.  We return to the parking lot and drive back to I-15.

We decide to spend the night in Cedar City (19 miles down the road).  We get a room at the Days Inn.  Tomorrow, we will drive to Kanab and spend the day exploring that area. 

We return to Zion National Park to hike the East Rim Trail (turn on the road that goes north right after the East Entrance Station).  The short road ends at a small dirt parking lot (maybe 10 cars can park here).

The East Rim Trail extends for more than 10 miles (to Weeping Rock).  We are going to hike the trail with no expectations or destination in mind.  The sandy trail is easy walking and a good leg-stretcher.  Another nice thing about the trail is that it is quiet and not heavily used.  We can't hear any road traffic … just the birds singing to us. 
 Trail Sign
Views Along the East Rim Trail
T
Entering Zion Wilderness
We return to the parking lot and say good-bye to Zion National Park.  Hopefully we’ll come back in the near future.

While we did not get very far into Zion Canyon during this visit, I am including a few photos from our 1991 visit when we hiked the five mile (round trip) trail to Angels Landing (1,488’ tall rock formation).  The 2.4 mile trail was constructed in 1926 and is considered a non-technical climb through the use of permanent rungs and ladders embedded in the rock wall.  It is not a hike for anyone with a fear of heights.  It includes many switchbacks and has exposed edges (no guard rails).  So, be prepared and hike safely because five people have fallen to their deaths from this location.    
Last Section of Trail to Angels Landing
View from Angels Landing
Inside the park you will find food and lodging at the Zion Lodge.  If you are planning to stay overnight at the Lodge, I would recommend making reservations prior to your visit to avoid any disappointments.

The campgrounds in Zion Canyon have restrooms (no showers), drinking water, picnic tables, and dump stations.

Gas, food, and lodging can be found in the following nearby towns:
Springdale (population 548 in 2013) is just outside the Park’s south entrance,
Kanab (population 4,468 in 2013) is about 32 miles from the Park’s east entrance.
St. George (population 76,817 in 2013) is about 42 miles from the PCark’s south entrance.
Cedar City (population 29,162 in 2013) is 58 miles to the Park’s south entrance. 

Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I recommend checking a trusted travel source for current reviews for lodging and dining options.   

CONTACT INFORMATION:  Zion National Park (Phone 435 772-3256).

ROAD INFORMATION:  For most of the year, the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is closed to private vehicles.  However, it is accessible by a free shuttle bus service which is available from late spring through late fall.  For current information on dates and times for the shuttle bus service, please click on the “Plan Your Visit” link at the end of this blog post.  Sorry, pets are not allowed on the shuttle bus.

The Zion/Mt. Carmel HighwayKolob Canyons Road, and Kolob Terrace Road are open to vehicles.

For information and photos on places we visited in southern Utah, I invite you to view my other blog posts by clicking on the following links:

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories.  To start planning your memorable trip to Zion National Park click on the “Plan Your Visit” link below:

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