Exploring & Hiking in Sleeping Bear Dunes NLS

LOCATION:  Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (NLS)

The Philip Hart Visitor Center is located at 9922 W Front St, Empire, Michigan USA (about 22 miles west of Traverse City in the northwestern quadrant of Michigan's Lower Peninsula)

Telephone:  (231) 326-4700

BACKGROUND INFO:  Fortunately for us, in 1970 Congress authorized the preservation of this beautiful stretch of land in and around Lake Michigan.  This 71,199 acre park includes two islands (North and South Manitou), an 1871 lighthouse (on South Manitou Island), and a rural historic farm district (Port Oneida) … not to mention the dune formations, miles of Lake Michigan shoreline, inland lakes and rivers, forests, and countless year-round recreational opportunities.   

Welcome to Sleeping Bear Dunes NLS

Sleeping Bear Dunes NLS is a fee area   If you don’t have a Park pass one can be purchased at the Visitor Center in Empire, Michigan.  This is a good place to start.  You can get maps and information about the park, view a movie in the auditorium or wander through the exhibit area.

Philip Hart Visitor Center

Sleeping Bear Dunes NLS is one of my favorite weekend destinations.  From the view at the top of the popular Dune Climb to the scenic overlooks along the Pierce Stocking Drive to the hidden treasures that can be discovered when exploring the back-country two-track roads, I never get tired of visiting 'the Dunes" and here are some of the reasons why … 

There are over 100 miles of official trails that range from easy strolls through shady forests to invigorating sandy trails along the open dune ridges with outstanding lake views.  Any time of the year is a good time to hike or snowshoe the trails.  I'd like to share with you a few of our favorite hikes:

Bay View to Lookout Point:

This trail can be access from West Miller Road or Thorson Road (northeast of Glen Arbor/M-22).  The Bay View to Lookout Point trail is a one mile round trip hike.  It is an easy, pleasant walk mostly through the forest and then through a meadow and up a hillside where the Ridge Trail begins. 

*Map

Parking Lot/Trail Head

Winter Hiking

Summer Hiking

When we reach the top of the ridge there is a bench and a nice view of Lake Michigan and the North and South Manitou Islands in the hazy distance.  Also visible in the distance is the North Manitou Shoal Light.  The Shoal Light was constructed in 1935 and automated in 1980.  While it is not within the lakeshore, we can see it and (for whatever reason) we can hear the mournful tone of the fog horn.  We spend a little time here before returning to the car. 

View from the Top of the Overlook

Bench at Overlook

Cottonwood Trail:

This trail is only accessible from the Pierce Stocking Drive (Stop 4).  We descend the stairs and begin walking the 1.5 mile Cottonwood Trail (rated moderate).  There isn’t a lot of shade along the trail and the trail has areas where we trudge through soft sand versus a hard-packed trail so it can be a workout especially on a warm day.  But we have plenty of water and we take our time enjoying this natural beauty. 

*Map

Stairs at Beginning of Trail

Soon, we reach a ridge offering a panoramic view of Glen Lake.  

Panoramic view

We continue hiking uphill to a small copse of trees where a bench is conveniently placed.  From here we can see Lake Michigan, the Dune Climb parking lot and the often photographed DH Day barn on M-109.  This is your chance to sit in the shade – so take a minute to enjoy it.  From this stop you can take a trail down to the top of the popular Dune Climb but we continued on the Cottonwood Trail.

Sit a spell and enjoy the view ...

DH Day Barn View

Dunes

The loop trail continues through the dune landscape until we arrive back at our starting point

Dune Climb:

The parking lot for the Dune Climb is located about five miles north of Empire on M-109.  If there is a “touristy” area in Sleeping Bear Dunes this is it.  Who can resist playing on a sand dune that rises 200 feet? This is a popular place any time of the year but how about coming in the winter for some sledding fun!  The Dune Climb area has a large parking lot, picnic area, and modern restrooms. 

Dune Climb

Dune Climb

Dune Climb

Top of Dune Climb in Winter

On the north end of the Dune Climb parking lot is the access to the Duneside Trail. 

Duneside Trail

Empire Bluff Trail:

The parking lot and trail head is located on Wilcox Road (south of Empire).  This trail ascends 400 feet in ¾ of a mile.  It is a popular hike especially near sunset. There is a primitive restroom at the beginning of the trail.  On our most recent trip here, we had afternoon thunderstorm and the possibility of seeing one of Lake Michigan’s outstanding sunsets was unlikely.  There are two other cars at the trailhead when we arrive a little after 8pm. I never get tired of hiking the bluff trail.  We pass by patches of wildflowers on our way through a pine/spruce forest to the Lake Michigan overlook. 

*Map

Stairs on Trail

At the top of the bluff, we have a panoramic view of Lake Michigan, Glen Lake, and the beach located in the Village of Empire.

View from the Empire Bluff Trail

We sit at a wooden bench 400' above the shoreline watching the sunlight dance on the water and the golden light color the sand.  Soon the sun slips behind a bank of western horizon clouds and that ends the possibility for tonight's sunset - so it ends not in a blaze of glory but with a whimper.  I guess they can’t all be perfect sunsets.

Lake Michigan Sunset

Ghost Forest Hike (Sleeping Bear Point Trail): 

In Glen Haven, we turn on M-209 toward the Maritime Museum to access the Sleeping Bear Point trailhead.  The 2.8 mile trail is good exercise (rated strenuous) with its soft sand and uphill climbs.  Fortunately, a lake breeze is helping to keep the temperature comfortable and the views of Lake Michigan are great. 

*Map

We spend several hours hiking over the sand dunes and exploring the small ghost forests.  A ghost forest is defined as "trees that long-ago became buried by moving dunes and then reappeared after the dunes moved."  The dead tree trunks stick out of the sand like oversized toothpicks … but there is more to see along this trail.

Ghost Forest

Trail Continues ...

We continue walking the uphill trail for a rewarding 360 degree view of the lakes and dunes. 

Sandy Trail

Sand Waves

View of Lake Michigan

At the fork in the trail, we take the right trail for a side trip to see Devil's Hole.  We hike for about half a mile before we find it.  After taking some pictures, we decide to turn around and return to the main trail.  By the time we reach the car we have hiked almost 4 miles. 

Devil's Hole

Old Indian Trail: 

The Old Indian Trail is located at the southern end of the park (about 20 minutes south of Empire) near the intersection of M-22 and Sutter Road. The forested trail is easy walking and eventually ends at the Lake Michigan shoreline. During our walk, we hear the flute-like song of a Thrush and the "who cooks for you" hoot of a Baird Owl. This is cougar country. We have never seen one but their presence has been documented.  

*Map

Trail

Dunes

Platte Plains – Bass Lake Trail:  

Located at the end of Trail’s End Road is the parking lot for Bass Lake (easy 3.5 mile loop trail).  We liberally apply the insect repellent and walk about 1.25 miles on the Bass Lake Loop Trail.  The fern-lined trail goes through a forest.  We might have hiked longer but between the mosquitoes and the lateness of the day, we return to the car.

*Map

Bass Lake

Bass Lake Trail

Pyramid Point Trail: 

The trail head parking lot is located on Basch Road near the Port Oneida Historic District.  The Pyramid Point Trail is a 1.2 mile round trip hike (rated moderate).  We have a beautiful day for walking through the forest to the high bluffs overlooking Lake Michigan. It is a steady uphill climb but the 180 degree view is rewarding.  From this vantage point, we can see the Manitou Islands, the Manitou Island Passage Light, and Beaver Island in the distance. The steep overlook does not have any guard rails so be careful when walking here.

*Map

Trail To Pyramid Point

Trail to Pyramid Point

Trilliums Line the Spring Trail

Partial View at Overlook

Shauger Hill Trail:

To access this trail use the parking lot near the entrance to Pierce Stocking Drive, (off M-109).  This moderate 2.5 mile loop trail goes through a mostly hilly forested terrain. 

*Map

Parking Lot/Entrance Sign

Trail Through Forest

Windy Moraine Trail:

Located at M-109 and Welch Road, this moderate 1.5 mile loop trail has a steady uphill climb to an overlook.  We find a few spring flowers (Dutchman's Britches or Squirrel Corn) and an old sugar maple tree to photograph.  

*Map

Trail

Trail

Old Maple Sugar Tree

Dutchman's Britches

Two-Track Roads:

Sometimes we like to get “off the beaten path” and explore the back-country roads.  These roads are seasonal and unmaintained (e.g. fallen trees across the road, unruly branches may scratch the sides of your car, potholes, etc.)..  

Aral Road

Boekaloo Road

Peterson Road Deer

Peterson Road

There are 21 lakes within the boundaries of the Sleeping Bear Dunes NLS.   Here are a few of my favorites: 

Glen Lake: 

From the Glen Lake Overlook along Pierce Stocking Drive, you'll notice that Little Glen Lake (about 12’ deep) is closest while Big Glen Lake (130’ deep) is on the other side of the Oleson Memorial Bridge on M-22.

Glen Lake

Glen Lake from Pierce Stocking Drive

Glen Lake from M-22 Bridge looking toward Pierce Stocking Drive

Sandhill Cranes at Glen Lake

Inspiration Point is located 8 miles east of Empire on McFarlane Road.  It offers a view of the Glen Lakes … on clear days.  An unusual stone bench provides some not-so-soft seating to enjoy the view.

Inspiration Point

Stone Bench

Loon Lake:

Located off M-22 (just past the Platte River) is the parking lot for Loon Lake.  It doesn’t have a beach but it does have a boat launch, picnic area, and restrooms.  Once we saw a beaver swimming in the water and a Great Blue Heron wading and waiting to catch a fish.  In the spring, wildflowers can be found along the shoreline.  This is a great spot (and less crowded) to watch the sunset.  There is a short shoreline path thru a forest to Kittendorf (canoe) Landing.  

Sunset at Loon Lake

Kittendorf Canoe Landing

Narada Lake  

Located on M-22 about 5 miles north of Glen Arbor is Narada Lake.  This area has a lot of trees and tree stumps as a result of beaver activity.  

Narada Lake

The Good Harbor Bay is located at the end of County Road 651 (northern part of the Park).  The area has a nice sandy beach.  About the only thing left from the Village of Good Harbor is a few dock pilings.

Good Harbor Bay

North Bar Lake:

While Lake Michigan can be a great place for fun recreational activities, it can be dangerous too.  The water temperature may be cold, there aren't any lifeguards, and visitors need to be aware of possible rip currents.  North Bar Lake is one of those places that offers a great sandy beach adjacent to Lake Michigan.  The shallow, clear water makes it perfect for swimming and kayaking.  There is a large parking lot with restrooms.  

Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive:

This “must see” scenic loop drive is 7.4 miles long and offers views of Lake Michigan and the Sleeping Bear Dunes landscape.  Before you come here, stop at the Visitor Center in Empire, Michigan and ask for the self-guided informational brochure on the scenic drive.  It will explain the interpretive numbered signs you will see.   There are picnic areas and restrooms and lots of things to see and do along the way. 

The highlight (and most popular) stop along the drive is the Lake Michigan Overlook.  It is 450 feet above Lake Michigan (the fourth largest fresh-water lake in the world).  

*Map

Lake Michigan Overlook

Refer to my Blog Post on Pierce Stocking Drive for more photos and information by clicking on the following link:

Pierce Stocking Drive

For another photo tour featuring the historic Barns and Buildings of a By-Gone Era - Sleeping Bear Dunes NLS, please refer to my Blog Post on that subject by clicking on the following link:

Sleeping Bear Dunes NLS Historic Buildings

To help plan you visit to Sleeping Bear Dunes, click on the following link:

Plan Your Visit Sleeping Bear Dunes NPS

The Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail is a hard-surfaced, non-motorized, multi-use trail approximately 27 miles (when completed)    I have not had a chance to check it out yet but I will sooner or later.  In the meantime, if you would like information on the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail, please click on the following link:

Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail

There is limited food (local restaurants and bars) and lodging (small hotels and B&B’s) in Empire and Glen Arbor.  The Traverse City area (about 30 minutes from the "Dunes") has the usual array of national- chain and locally-owned places to eat and stay the night.  Since opinions, budgets, and preferences vary, I recommend checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

*Indicates images from NPS sources