Thursday, July 2, 2015

Barns, Buildings,and a By-Gone Era - Historic Sleeping Bear Dunes NLS

Fortunately for us, in 1970 Congress authorized the preservation of this beautiful stretch of land in and around Lake Michigan now known as Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.  Included in this 71,199 acre park is an extensive rural historic farm district (Port Oneida).  But historic structures aren’t limited to the Port Oneida District - there are plenty of other hidden gems (some in plain sight) waiting for you to discover in other areas of the park as well

These back-country roads make for a great Sunday drive.  So, get comfortable – we’re going for a ride.

PORT ONEIDA:
According to the NPS website, “This area covers 3,000 acres and includes 16 historic farms that were typical at the turn of the century. The farming community was gradually abandoned mostly due to hard farming conditions.”
                                      
I like to photograph unusual things – like outhouses.  The Port Oneida District has a lot of them. You can see an outhouse located behind the yellow house. This is typically where an outhouse would be located – back and away from the house …making it a long walk on a cold dark night!   Obviously some restoration is happening here to the house – new paint color.
House is Yellow in 2015 (notice Outhouse in back)
House was Red in 2010
Eckhert Barn
Eckhert Farm Outbuildings

Near the intersection of M-22 and Wheeler Road is the Lawr Farm.  The buildings were constructed in the 1890’s.  
Lawr Farm

The 110 acre Martin Basch Farm is located on Baker Road.  Some of the buildings are being restored.
Martin Basch House
Martin Basch Farm - Outbuildings

At the dead-end of Kelderhouse Road we found the Ole Olsen Farm.  There is a rickety old outhouse behind the farm house.  Looking at the house, I wonder why they put ladder rungs on the metal roof?
Ole Olsen House
Ladder Rungs on Metal Roof
Outbuildings
Olsen Barn Window Reflection

Just north of M-22 on Basch Road we find the Peter Burfiend Farm. 
Peter Burfiend Farm
Basch Road in front of Peter Burfiend Farm

On the west side of Thoreson Road (just south of Sunset Trail) is the Thoreson Farm.  Some of these buildings are being restored. 
Thoreson Farm
Barns & Outbuildings
Red Barn Door

This lone barn stands in a field on Thoreson Road
Brunson Barn
Brunson Barn on a Foggy Day
OTHER INTERESTING HISTORIC SITES:
Located on M-22 (just west of Townline Road) is the Bufka Farm. The barn was built in 1908.  I like the roof lines of this picturesque farm.  
The small log building (visible in the far right of the second photo) is thought to be the original cabin the family lived in until the larger house was built.  Later, the small log building became the chicken coop. 
Bufka Farm Outbuildins & Chicken Coop

Just south of M-22 on Townline Road is the Eitzen Farm (1890). 
Eitzen Farm

The Kraitz Cabin was one of those historic buildings that we kept driving by and missing it!  From M-22, turn south on CR 699 (aka Bohemian Road) for about 8.10’s of a mile and it will be on the east side of the road.  The cabin (built around 1856) sits back from the road and the green color helps camouflage it.  This photo is from 2010 – we didn’t see it during our recent 2015 visit.
Kraitz Cabin
At the southeast corner of M-22 and Townline Road we found this building.  When I first saw it, I thought it was a barn but apparently it is a granary (used to store grain for the horses). 
Kropp Farm - Granary (built around 1890)
The Weaver Farm is located on Basch Road.  It is very easy to miss this decaying building.  For your own safety, please keep your distance from it.  However, if you get out of your car, stand quietly and listen to the sounds … the wind whistling through the trees, the creaking of the wood, the cawing of a crow … .  
Ruins of the Weaver Farm House

GHOST TOWNS IN SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NLS
Aral (aka Otter Creek):
In the 1880's, Aral (aka Otter Creek) was a booming lumber town.  This ghost town is located in the southern end of the Park a few miles south of Empire on Lake Michigan where Otter Creek empties in the Lake.
Aral Lodge Road
By 1883, the lumber business was booming and the town of Otter Creek was growing.  In addition to the two-story sawmill, there was a schoolhouse, stores, livery barn, boarding house, and ... a hanging tree?!   Otter Creek needed a Post Office.  The town name of "Otter Creek" and "Bancroft" were already taken in Michigan.  Another name was suggested - "Aral" after the Aral Sea in Europe.  Despite its new name, locals continued to call it Otter Creek.

By 1911, the forest was depleted and families began to leave Aral.  However, in 1925, Bertie and Donna Bancroft moved back to the area and built a restaurant and rooming house called the Ken-Tuck-U Inn.  This is one of my favorite buildings in Sleeping Bear Dunes. Originally painted a pale yellow, today the house is a weathered and faded red color.   It is located on M-22 near Long Lake Road.   
Ken-Tuck-U Inn - Street View
Ken-Tuck-U Inn - Back Yard View
Peek Inside the Window
North Unity/Shaida Corners:
Located on the north nd of the Park, it was first settled in 1855.  A temporary 150'x20' barracks was constructed for housing families until more permanent homes could be built.  North Unity had a schoolhouse, sawmill, and store.  In 1859, it was awarded a pots office.  In 1871, the village was destroyed by fire and little evidence of North Unity remains.  However, the villagers moved inland to Shaida Corners (located at the corner of M-22 and Cr-669).  Located near the southwest corner is the Shalda Cabin.  It was built in the mid 1850’s.  This is another one of those buildings that is in plain sight but since it is set back from the road, it is easy to overlook.
Shalda Cabin
Log Cabin Details
Also, the North Unity School (an old log schoolhouse) is located on M-22 just west of Narada Lake.  Both of these buildings are within the Sleeping Bear Dunes NLS boundary.
North Unity Log School
Good Harbor:
Good Harbor was settled in 1863 and at one time had a population of 300 people.  The town had 18 houses, two general stores, a post office, boarding house, feed barn, and saloon.  After the mill burned down in 1906, the residents of Good Harbor began to move away.  St. Paul's Lutheran Church established on higher ground near the village is located on M-22 (near Townline Road).  It was rebuilt in 1919 and later expanded.  Other than the church and adjacent cemetery, there is little left to see.
St. Paul's Lutheran Church
Glen Haven:
Glen Haven is probably the most popular ghost town in the area.  This restored port village transports visitors back to its 1920's appearance.  According to an 1881 plat map, Glen Haven had 11 buildings including the inn, store, blacksmith shop, wagon shop, and school. Due to improvements in the roads and rail service, the Glen Haven dock began to decline until it was closed in 1931.  The inn closed in 1972 and the General Store closed in 1978. Sometime In the mid-1970's, the National Park Service purchased all of the village (with some residents retaining their occupancy rights) and now maintains it as an historic site.Take a few minutes to walk around the buildings and enjoy the lake view.  


Blacksmith Shop
Sleeping Bear Inn (1857-1972)
Street Fronts in Glen Haven  
The Cannery Boat Museum is located right on the Lake Michigan beach.  
Cannery-Boathouse
Boat Exhibit Inside Cannery Building
Another Museum:
Just down the road (west of Glen Haven) is the Sleeping Bear Point Coast Guard Station Maritime Museum.
Entrance Sign  & Coast Guard Station & Boathouse

The Boathouse is located next to the Coast Guard Station/Museum.  Inside the boathouse are some examples of life-saving equipment used during the early 1900's.
Boathouse - Exterior & Interior

Inside the Coast Guard Station are exhibits about the U.S. Life Saving Service as well as some history about shipping on the Great Lakes.  
Coast Guard Station & Fresnel Lens on Display

On the second floor (not handicap accessible) is a room set up as a “wheelhouse” and across the hall is the crews sleeping quarters.
Steamer Wheelhouse Display
Cot in Crews Quarters
The Museum is open daily (11:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.) from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day.

AT THE SOUTHERN END OF SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NLS ...

Boekeloo Lodge
Turn down Boekeloo Road – it is an unmaintained two-track road – and go to the dead-end and park your vehicle.  Boekeloo Lodge (built in 1932) is nestled in the woods at the edge of a small pond.  It is a peaceful setting so take a few minutes to enjoy the solitude.  There is a picnic table on the wooden deck overlooking the pond but the outhouse was locked.   If you are feeling ambitious, there is a one mile trail that will lead you to Lake Michigan.  We started to walk the trail but the bugs were more ambitious than we were!
Boekeloo Road
Boekeloo Lodge
Boekeloo Lodge Pond View
A peek inside the lodge window

While many of the houses here are typical farm houses, the Victorian house on the Esch Farm is a stand-out in my opinion.
Victorian House on the Esch Farm

The rural landscape has many moods.  Here the weathered wood of the Pelky Barn (located on M-22 south of the Tweddle School) is a backdrop for a field of Queen Anne’s Lace and again on a foggy day.  
Pelky Barn

The Platte Post Office (1868-1905) is easily seen from M-22 and yet how many times have we driven by Esch Road and never seen this historic building?
Platte Post Office

At the corner of Norconk and Stormer Roads is the Tweddle Farm (about ½ mile west of M-22).  I am not sure why I find this barn visually appealing but every time I see it, I keep photographing it .... 
Tweddle Barn

Kitty-corner from the Tweddle Farm is the beginning of an easy half mile walk through the woods to the Treat Farm.  We especially enjoy walking this trail in the spring when the wildflowers (like trilliums) line the edge of the trail. 
Road/Trail to Treat Farm
Treat Farm House
Window Behind House
Treat Farm Barn
SCHOOLHOUSES
In case you don’t know this about me, I love one-room schoolhouses and Sleeping Bear Dunes has four of them (that we know of).  The two best known are the Tweddle School (13012 M-22 – about 2 miles south of Empire) and the Port Oneida School (just north of M-22 on Port Oneida Road).  The Morgan School (9971 Esch Road) can be seen from M-22.  The North Unity School is hidden from view by trees and can be easily overlooked even though you drive right by it.  As stated earlier, it is located on M-22 at the west end of Narada Lake.   
Morgan School (1868-1950)
Tweddle School (1895)
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Port Oneida School (1890's)
North Unity School (1870)

If you would like to see more of my one-room schoolhouses, please check out my blog at

For another tour featuring the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive in Sleeping Bear Dunes NLS, please refer to my Blog Post by clicking on the following link:
For some hiking ideas, please refer to my Blog Post on Exploring Sleeping Bear Dunes NLS by clicking on the following link:

To download a free booklet on Port Oneida, click on the following link:

Sleeping Bear Dunes NLS is a fee area; so, don't forget to get your park pass at the Visitor Center in Empire, Michigan.

There is limited food (local restaurants and bars) and lodging (small hotels and B&B’s) in Empire and Glen Arbor.  The Traverse City area (about 30 minutes from the "Dunes") has the usual array of national- chain and locally-owned places to eat and stay the night.  Since opinions, budgets, and preferences vary, I recommend checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories.  To help plan your memorable visit to Sleeping Bear Dunes, click on the following link:  






























         










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