Gettysburg National Military Park (U.S. Civil War Site)

While we are visiting Pennsylvania, we had to stop in Gettysburg and tour the Park.  In 1895, the federally protected Gettysburg Battlefield was designated a National Park.  It was established for the purpose of protecting and interpreting the landscape of the 1863 Battle of Gettysburg.  In 1966, it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 

From July 1-3, 1863 over 160,000 men fought at the Battle of Gettysburg.  It was the bloodiest single battle of the American Civil War.  At the end of the three-day battle, about 50,000 men (and one woman) were killed, wounded, or missing.  Wait a minute - a woman was killed during the battle? 

On July 3rd, 20-year old Jennie (Ginnie) Wade was in the kitchen of her sister’s house kneading dough to make biscuits for the Union soldiers.  While she was aware of the fighting near the house, she did not flee to the cellar but bravely continued preparing food for the Union soldiers.   Suddenly, a stray bullet penetrated through two doors and struck Jennie in the upper back killing her instantly.  She was the only civilian killed during the Battle of Gettysburg. Jennie’s final resting place is in Gettysburg’s historic Evergreen Cemetery.  In 1900, a monument was place at her gravesite where a U.S. flag is flown.  

Jennie Wade's Grave Site

While I enjoy history, I am not an authority of the American Civil War.  I can not begin to explain the strategies or sequence of events in a single blog post.  In general, the Battle at Gettysburg is considered one battle site that happened over a three day period.  However, there are a few occurrences where fighting has been identified by its location like Devil’s Den, Big Round Top, Little Round Top, the Wheatfield, and the Peach Orchard.  During this three-day battle, both sides experienced heavy losses. 

The beautiful sculptures and monuments found throughout the battlefield tell the tale of the battle of Gettysburg.  There are 1,328 monuments and markers.  They have been placed at the site where the units fought.  

As always I recommend beginning any National Park visit with a stop at the Visitor Center.  You can get a Park Map & Guide (a Battlefield Tour Map) at the Visitor Center or download a printable copy through the “Plan Your Visit” link at the end of this post.  

Visitor Center

NPS Battlefield Tour Map

The 24-mile Auto Tour of the Battlefield features 16 stops.  Most of the battlefield farms are private quarters for park employees and their families and are not open to the public.  However, on our Saturday visit, the Park was having an “Open Doors” day.  This special treat allowed us to go inside some of the buildings that are usually closed to the public and to interact with costumed historians at various locations around the park.  

Stop 1 - McPherson Ridge:  We didn’t make it to McPherson Ridge but we do see the nearby Seminary Ridge. The Old Dorm (completed in 1832) is located at 61 Seminary Ridge, Gettysburg.  The copula served as an observation tower for both the Union and then Confederate soldiers.  It was also used as a field hospital during and after the three days battle.

Old Dorm at Seminary Ridge

Stop 2 – Eternal Light Peace Memorial:  We didn’t have time to stop here but we did see it on a prior visit.  This 40’ tall monument commemorates the 50^th anniversary of the Battle of Gettysburg.  It was dedicated on July 3, 1938.  It is located on Oak Hill (along Confederate Avenue). 

Stop 3 – Oak Ridge:  The fighting at McPherson Ridge and Oak Ridge occurred on the first day (July 1).  It is interesting to note while death and destruction occurred in the fields, life and property of the civilian population remained unharmed.   Churches, schools, and homes were opened for the care of the wounded.

Stop 4 – North Carolina Memorial:  This monument was dedicated on July 3, 1929 and commemorates the 32 Carolina regiments that fought here.  It was designed by American sculptor Gutzon Borglum (famous for Mount Rushmore).  The likenesses of the soldiers in the sculpture were actual Confederate soldiers.

North Carolina Monument

Stop 5 – Virginia Memorial:  Completed in 1917, the Virginia Memorial was the first of the Confederate State monuments to be placed in the battlefield.  At the top of this 41' high monument is General Robert E. Lee sitting on his horse Traveler.  At the battle of Gettysburg, Virginia contributed over 19,000 men to the Army of Northern Virginia.  It was the largest contingent from the twelve Confederate states.

Virginia Monument

From the Virginia Memorial, we get the Confederates view from Seminary Ridge to Cemetery Ridge.  I understand the National Park Service is working to rehabilitate the Battlefield as much as possible to its 1863 appearance.  So, we decide to walk in the footsteps of history – moving across the open field toward Cemetery Ridge where the Union troops were located.  This is the path the 12,000 Confederate soldiers would have taken during the battle now known as “Pickett’s Charge” (occurred on July 3, 1863).  The trail is paved to the end of the woods and then becomes a wide grassy trail that is kept mowed.  The field was hot and dry during the battle.  Today, the grassy trail is slightly muddy due to the recent rains. 

Pickett's Charge Exhibit

Point of the Woods Trail

Cannon in Field

Upon reaching the Union line, Pickett’s men briefly broke through a small center section known as the “High Water Mark”.  We arrive at the stone fence marking the Union’s position.   

Stone Fence

Massachusetts's Monument - Sharpshooters

Monument to the Army of the Potomac

From here, we look back and see the view the Union soldiers had of the Confederates on Seminary Ridge.  If you don’t have the time to walk “Pickett’s Charge”, you will be able to see these monuments at Stop 15 – High Water Mark.

Pennsylvania 72nd Artillery Monument - Erected in 1891

After fighting for an hour in 80-90 degree temperatures, the Confederate soldiers retreated across the field where General Lee met them on horseback.  He was reportedly heard saying, "It's been all my fault".  The attack had cost his army almost 6,000 causalities.  We return to our car by the Virginia Memorial and resume our tour of the battlefield. 

Stop 6 – Pitzer Woods:  I understand skirmishes in these woods occurred on July 2.  We did not stop at Pitzer Woods but near here is Longstreet’s Observation Tower.  I recommend taking a few minutes to see the view – and get a little exercise.  We climb the 121 metal steps to the top.  The round metal guide will point you to important landmarks. 

Longstreet's Tower

Round Metal Guide to Landmarks

Panoramic View from Tower

Stop 7 – Warfield Ridge:  We did not visit this stop during our most recent visit.  This ridge was heavily wooded at the time of the battle and provided excellent concealment for Longstreet's Confederate troops who found shelter here prior to the attack on the afternoon of July 2^nd.         

Stop 8 – Little Round Top:  Fierce fighting took place here on July 2, 1863.  Little Round Top was a key position for the Union due to its higher ground offering an outstanding view of the southern end of the battlefield including Devil’s Den.  The New York State Monument is a castle-like tower you can climb. 

NPS Map - Notice the "fish hook" line

View of Devil's Den from Little Round Top

Monuments to Patty O'Rourke & New York State Monument

Here “at the top”, we find costumed men and women who are playing roles of military men, nurses (like Clara Barton), ladies in hooped skirts, and cannon operators (no cannon shootings).  The cloudy skies have finally cleared and the late afternoon sun is shining brightly in the faces of our costumed friends.  

Costumed Historians

So many things to see here it's no wonder most cars do a quick look and keep moving.  The rocky area known as Devil's Den offered protection for the Union soldiers.   Later on July 2, 1863, the Confederate soldiers would take possession of the Devil’s Den.  It was one of the few Southern successes in that day’s fighting.  From Devil's Den, we can see Little Round Top.

Entrance to Devil's Den

Pennsylvania 99th Infantry

Devil's Den View of Little Round Top

Stop 9 – The Wheatfield:  Today, the birds are singing in this quiet setting where once only the sounds of guns, cannons, and shouts filled the air.    

Michigan 4th Infantry Monument

New York Infantry Monument

Stop 10 – The Peach Orchard:   On July 2, 1863, Union troops held this position.  By afternoon, Confederate soldiers arrived resulting in some of the heaviest fighting on that day.  We didn’t have time to stop here during this visit but I am including a photo from a past visit.

Peach Orchard

Stop 11 – Plum Run:  Plum Run is also called “Bloody Run” because the slow-moving stream ran red with the blood of the fallen soldiers.  The stream runs through the Valley of Death between Devil’s Den and Little Round Top.   How appropriate are these names – “Valley of Death”, “Devil’s Den”, “Bloody Run”?    

Stop 12 – Pennsylvania Memorial:  Here the Union artillery held the line on July 2 and 3, 1863.  Completed in 1914, the monument commemorates the 34,530 Pennsylvania soldiers who fought in the Battle of Gettysburg.  At the top of this 110’ tall monument is a granite dome and a statue of the Goddess of Victory and Peace.. At the dome's base is an observation deck that is accessed by a spiral staircase.  I am guessing that we are able to climb the stairs to the top because this is “Open Doors” day.  We are excited to see the commanding view from the top of the monument.

The Iconic Pennsylvania Monument

View from the Top of the Pennsylvania Monument

Stop 13 – Spangler’s Spring:  This area was the scene of heavy fighting on July 2 and 3, 1863.  We did not have time to see this part of the Park.

Stop 14 – East Cemetery Hill:   Fighting occurred here on all three days (July 1–3, 1863).  This is where the northernmost part of the Union’s famous "fish-hook" line was located.  Unfortunately, we were not able to visit this area of the Park on this trip.

Stop 15 – High Water Mark:  The center of the Union army ran along this ridge.  This was the spot the Confederate army reached before they were forced to retreat (Pickett’s Charge).   

Copse of Trees:  It is here at the Copse of Trees where we watch some costumed rebel soldiers end their day by folding their flag. 

High Water Mark Monument

Stop 16 – National Soldiers Cemetery:  Across the road from the cemetery is a parking lot (between Taneytown Road and Steinwehr Avenue or Bus. Rte. 15).   You will find a link for a printable walking tour of the Cemetery at the end of the post.  Please be respectful and quiet during your visit here. 

NPS Map

A staff person greets us at the gate and provides us with some background on the cemetery.  For instance, the Gettysburg Address Memorial (erected 1912) is the only monument that honors a speech (not the person).  Also, this is not the location where President Lincoln gave his historic speech.

So where did Lincoln give the Gettysburg Address?  Based on the few photos taken at that time, historians have determined the location to be in the nearby Evergreen Cemetery.  This location was chosen because they were afraid the standing crowds (15,000 people) would sink into the freshly dug shallow graves of the soldiers if they held the dedication ceremony in the Soldiers Cemetery. 

Now to find the location - go to the black fence that separates the Soldiers Cemetery from the Evergreen Cemetery and find the gate.  Now, look in the 10 o'clock position and locate Jennie Wade's grave site (look for the American Flag) and then to look at the twelve o'clock position (we saw an above ground crypt).  President Lincoln gave his speech right in the middle of these two spots. 

Monument to the Gettysburg Address

Location of Where Gettysburg Address was Given 

(between Crypt and American Flag)

On November 19, 1863 a dedication ceremony for the new cemetery was held.  As a courtesy, President Lincoln was asked to say “a few appropriate words”.  Abraham Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address consisted of 272 words saying that, “The world will little note, nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here."   Mr. Lincoln's words are still remembered along with the Battle of Gettysburg.  

Over 3,500 soldiers killed during the Battle of Gettysburg are buried here.  Since I am originally from Michigan, I had to seek out my home state’s section.

We leave the Cemetery to see one more building.  Near the Visitor Center is the location of General Meade's Headquarters.  This small house was open during our visit.

General Meade's Headquarters

Kitchen/Dining Area

Bedroom

It was a full day touring the Park but certainly a "must see" if you are in the area. 

CONTACT INFORMATION:  Visitor Center for Gettysburg National Military Park (NMP) is at 1195 Baltimore Pike, Gettysburg, Pennsylvania (USA)

Telephone:  (717) 334-1124

GENERAL INFORMATION:  This 6,000-acre Park is open daily (April 1 – October 31) from 6:00 AM to 10:00 PM.  The rest of the year (November 1 – March 31), the Park is open daily from 6:00 AM to 7:00 PM.  The Gettysburg National Cemetery is open at dawn and closes at sunset.  Park buildings are closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and New Years Day.

There is not an entrance fee for the Park, National Cemetery, or park buildings.  However, the Visitor Center charges a fee to see the film, the museum galleries, and the cyclorama program.  The Gettysburg Cyclorama is a 360-degree oil on canvas painting 377 feet long by 42 feet high that depicts the full fury of “Pickett’s Charge”. 

Private camping is not allowed in the park.  However, the town of Gettysburg (population 65,000) is about 3 miles from the Battlefield.  You will find a wide variety of dining and lodging options here.

Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I recommend checking a trusted travel source for current reviews on places to eat and sleep.  .  

If you enjoy Civil War history, I invite you to view my other blog posts on Antietam NB and Monocacy NB by clicking on the following links:

Antietam National Battlefield

Monocacy National Battlefield

A costumed soldier carries the Confederate flag 

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories.  To start planning your memorable trip to Gettysburg NMP click on the “Plan Your Visit” link below:

Plan Your Visit - Gettysburg NMP

You can print a walking tour for the Soldiers National Cemetery by clicking on the following link:

National Soldiers Cemetery Walking Tour