Tuesday, September 18, 2018

Norris Geyser Basin: Back Basin - Some Like It Hot

Yellowstone – it is a vast land filled with strange and wonderful places - like Norris Geyser Basin. In the 1870’s, Norris Geyser Basin was referred to as “Gibbon Geyser Basin”. However, P. W. Norris (Park Superintendent from 1877-1882) made a dying wish to have this area named after him. He died in January of 1885 and his wish was granted.

Norris is one of Yellowstone’s hottest hydrothermal areas. Under these conditions, most life forms could not exist. However, it is the perfect environment for the colorful thermopiles (heat-loving micro-organisms) that can be found here. I guess it’s true - some like it hot.

While the Norris Geyser Basin is really one large basin, there are two separate trail areas – the Porcelain Basin and the Back Basin. This blog post is all about the Back Basin.

The Back Basin consists of a large outer loop trail with a connector trail in the center. The longer outer loop is 1.5 miles in length. For everyone's safety, it is important to stay on the designated trail. We will be hiking the outer trail in a clock-wise direction beginning at the museum near the parking lot.  That reminds me … several restrooms are located in the parking lot but there aren’t any in the basin area.
Parking Lot Entrance
Museum Building

Back Basin - NPS Map
The first thermal feature (on our right) is Emerald Spring. The water in this 27-foot deep spring has been known to change colors. It can be green, or a murky brown, or even a deep blue (indicating a hotter water temperature). When we see it, the spring is a blue pool with clouds of steam hovering over its surface.
Emerald Spring
Next, is the famous Steamboat Geyser (aka New Crater Geyser). It is the world’s tallest active geyser with eruptions up to 300+ feet. Minor eruptions (10-15 feet) are more common. Steamboat is an unpredictable geyser and can go years without a major eruption. However, in 2018, Steamboat Geyser began another active cycle offering those fortunate enough to be in the right place at the right time a real treat.
Steamboat Geyser (2005)
We came close to seeing Steamboat Geyser erupt during our September 30, 2018 visit. We waited in the cold and rain for over six hours. Later in the afternoon, as the temperature dropped to the freezing mark, the rain turned to ice pellets that bounced off our rain ponchos. Many people packed up their camping chairs and left. We stayed until 6:30 pm (it would be dark in 30 minutes anyway). The next day, we found out Steamboat erupted at 6:55 pm. We missed it by 25 minutes! Maybe the darkness would have prevented us from seeing it but we still could have heard and felt its powerful rush of water.   
Steamboat Geyser Run-Off
A short distance after Steamboat Geyser is an intersection (the connector trail). For those not wishing to continue the longer loop trail, taking this connector trail to the opposite side of the outer loop trail will shorten the hike. We are doing the entire outer loop trail.  For now, Cistern Spring is directly in front of us.  Cistern Spring and Steamboat Geyser are linked underground.  After Steamboat’s major eruptions, Cistern Spring will drain completely and slowly refill within a few days.  Usually, Cistern Spring's blue water overflows flooding the lodgepole pine forest.  
Cistern Spring (2006)
Cistern Spring (2018)
We resume our hike around the outer loop trail until we reach Echinus Geyser. In the 1980-90’s, we did see Echinus Geyser erupt (up to 75 feet high). It hasn’t had much activity in more recent years.  Echinus gets its name from the Greek word for "spiny".  It was named in 1878 because of the pebbles around its base was thought to resemble a spiny sea-urchin.
Echinus Geyser
Next to the trail and the observation platform for Echinus Geyser is an often overlooked thermal feature called Black Pit Spring.   
Black Pit Spring (2018)
The boardwalk trail crosses Tantalus Creek and curves toward Crater Spring. At times this spring is bubbling or may even erupt. During our visit, the blue pool is quiet.   
Crater Spring (2011)
Arch Steam Vent can be seen on the left side of the trail
Arch Steam Vent (2018)
The trail continues to pass by several hot pools including Mystic Spring. There are other pools but they are not as easily identifiable . 
Mystic Spring
At the far end of the Back Basin, is Puff ‘N Stuff Geyser. Puffs of steam drift upward from its opening.
Puff "N Stuff Geyser (2011)
Nearby, but set a little farther off the trail, is Black Hermit Caldron.  
Black Hermit Caldron (2018)

The trail curves and begins leading us back toward the museum. In the meantime, there is still plenty more to see. To get a better look at Green Dragon Spring, we take a short spur trail to see the steamy cave entrance.
Green Dragon Spring (2018)
Next, we view the steam billowing from Blue Mud Steam Vent.  
Blue Mud Steam Vent
Yellow Funnel Spring is another example of Yellowstone’s ever-changing landscape.  Sometimes the spring is a muddy hole bubbling with hot water.  Today, we see a pool filled with beautiful blue-green color water.           

Yellow Funnel Spring (2018)           Yellow Funnel Spring (2011)

Porkchop Geyser was named in 1961 because it was thought the spring’s shape resembled a porkchop. 
Porkchop Geyser (2018)
We cross over the South Fork of Tantalus Creek to Pearl Geyser. It was named in 1878 for the deposits that surrounded the spring. My favorite thing about it is its opalescent appearance.
Pearl Geyser (2011)
Sometimes the scene may look barren especially when thermal features are dormant and dry. Here, the boardwalk trail leads us safely through a landscape filled with bubbling hot springs.
 Boardwalk Trail (2011)
Bubbling Hot Springs (2011)

On the right side of the trail is Vixen Geyser. This was a fun geyser to watch. When I first saw it, a narrow stream of water was bursting out of the basin. Within a minute, the eruption stopped and the basin completely drained. I didn’t linger here to see if the cycle would repeat or not.
  Vixen Geyser  Active
Vixen Geyser - Inactive

Once again, we arrive at the intersection of the connector trail. There are a couple of things I want to see near this end of the connector trail. So, we take a right turn off the main loop tail to see Corporal Geyser (on our left). The pretty pool of green water moves with gentle ripples. When Corporal Geyser was named in 1889, it may have been due to its relationship to nearby Veteran Geyser which was thought to be older.  
Corporal Geyser (2006)
A short distance down the connector trail is Veteran Geyser (on our right). It was named in the mid-1880’s. No one knows the rationale behind its name but it may have been a salute to the years of the thermal area’s existence. Veteran Geyser hasn’t had any major eruptions in recent years.  
Veteran Geyser (2006)
We retrace our steps back to the outer loop trail and continue to Palpitator Spring.  This spring was named in the 1880’s because the spring’s rhythmic palpitations created by the gas bubbles was like a heart beating. I didn’t see a lot of bubbling action. Maybe the spring needs CPR to get it going again.
Palpitator Spring (2018)
Fearless Geyser (on our left). It is another gently boiling thermal feature.
Fearless Geyser (2018)
Nearby, on our right, we see Monarch Geyser. Named in the early 1880’s, Monarch Geyser hasn’t had a major eruption since 1913.  
Monarch Geyser (2011)
The last thermal feature we see on the Back Basin trail is Minute Geyser (aka Minute Man). In the 1880’s this geyser erupted about every 60 seconds. It no longer erupts but it is considered a “perpetual spouter”.
Minute Geyser (2011)
We walk through a forested hill taking the trail back to our starting point near the museum. At that point, we will continue our hike through the Porcelain Basin area. I’ll share our visit there in my next blog post.

No matter how many times I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing its ever-changing scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:

Planning a visit to Yellowstone? Food and lodging options are available inside the park and in towns just outside the park (West Yellowstone, Gardiner, and Cooke City/Silver Gate – all located in Montana). I highly recommend making lodging reservations in advance. Yellowstone is a popular destination and “No Vacancy” signs are common especially during the peak summer months. Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I suggest checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

My best advice is this - don’t just drive through Yellowstone – experience it!

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience.

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone, please click on the following link:

Saturday, September 8, 2018

Hiking Yellowstone: Northwest Corner - More Space; Less Crowded

Yellowstone National Park is a big, beautiful, and busy place. If you are seeking a little solitude, there are areas within the Park where you can get away from the crowds – even during the peak season. This post will highlight four hikes where scenery and solitude can be found in the northwest corner of Yellowstone.  They are: Bighorn Creek Trail, Fawn Pass Trail, Bacon Rind Trail, and Daily Creek Trail.
NPS Map
We’ve been to this area on three different occasions. Each time we left West Yellowstone and headed north on Highway 191 & 287 toward Big Sky and Bozeman. So, the mileage to the trailheads will be from West Yellowstone.

On Highway 191, a small wooden sign hanging from a post marks the entrance to the Park.
Park Entrance Sign
We hiked part of the Bighorn Creek Trail during a snowy October visit. I would describe this area as remote, rugged, and rewarding. The only people you may see on the trail are those in your group but keep your eyes open because this area is good wildlife habitat.

The dirt road to Bighorn Creek Trailhead is on the right-hand side of US-191 about 20.4 miles from West Yellowstone. The trail is a 21.2 mile (round trip) hike to Bighorn Pass. When it comes to hiking trails, my Hubby and I have adopted a “we don’t have to do the whole-thing” attitude.  We like to get out of the car and hike a trail without any expectations. Sometimes we do the whole hike and sometimes we don’t. Today, we hike the trail for about 1.5 miles before returning to the trailhead.

That part of the trail we did hike was easy walking. After we left the car, we hiked about 2/10’s of a mile and found this scene of the Gallatin River meandering near the trail.   
Gallatin River
In another quarter mile, we encounter this wooden footbridge over the Gallatin River. At least I didn’t have to get my feet wet fording a river!
Footbridge over Gallatin River
We continue hiking the snow-covered landscape crossing another stream with the aid of a makeshift wooden footbridge and passing through a pine forest and meadows.
Meadow to Pine Forest
 Pine Forest Trail

Snow-Covered Landscape
We didn’t see any grizzly bears during this October visit but this is prime bear territory.

During a June visit, we hiked part of the Fawn Pass Trail. From West Yellowstone, the trailhead is about 21.9 miles to the parking lot on the right side of Highway 191. It’s about 1.5 miles after the Bighorn Creek Trailhead.

This 20.3 mile trail extends from Highway 191 to the Glen Creek Trailhead (about five miles south of Mammoth near the entrance to Bunsen Peak Road). Because this is prime bear territory, the National Park Service recommends groups of four or more hikers.

As soon as we arrive at the Fawn Pass trailhead, we see a cow moose heading toward Highway 191.  
Moose near Trailhead
The beginning of the trail is a meadow filled with little streams. Fortunately, there are footbridges so I don’t get my feet wet (I hate getting my feet wet!). After the meadow, we climb a sloping hillside and continue hiking through forests and more meadows dotted with sagebrush.
Sagebrush 
Trail View
Trail View
We hike for about 1.5 miles to the Fan Creek Trail sign. At this point, we decide to return to the parking lot.
Again, we didn’t see any bears on our hike but we did see this porcupine in the open meadow near the trail. 
During another October visit (no snow this time), we drove about 22.5 miles north of West Yellowstone on Highway 191 to the Bacon Rind Trailhead. This trail is 2 miles in length with a 93’ elevation change. Most of the trail is on the east side of Highway 191. However, it starts on the west side of Hwy 191 (at the Park’s west boundary), crosses the highway, and continues until it reaches the main Fawn Pass Trail. The Bacon Rind trail fords more creeks and rivers per mile than any trail in Yellowstone.

Knowing this, we opt to hike the trail on the west side of Highway 191 toward Yellowstone’s western boundary. The trail is an easy walk through a forest and meadows along Bacon Rind Creek.
Rock-Strewn Forest Trail
Trail along Bacon Rind Creek
From the Park’s west boundary, Bacon Rind Creek flows east to the Gallatin River. There isn’t any record of who named Bacon Rind Creek. It’s been called that as early as 1898.

After we finished the Bacon Rind Creek hike, we continued driving north to the Daily (Daly) Creek Trailhead. It’s about 30.4 miles north of West Yellowstone. The Daly Creek trailhead is on the right side of the highway.
Daly Creek Trailhead
The Daly Creek Trail is 5.5 miles long (10.4 round trip) with about 1,600 feet elevation change. Due to time constraints, we didn’t hike the entire trail. The stretch we did hike was easy walking through sagebrush filled meadows offering distant views of the Gallatin Range.
 Footbridge over Daly Creek
It’s getting late in the afternoon and I have one more photo stop planned. So, we retrace our steps back to the parking lot.
View going back to the car ...
Before we head back to West Yellowstone for the night, I wanted to get a photo of the northwest Park entrance sign on Highway 191. Every time we enter a National Park, we stop at the entrance sign for a photo. Here in Yellowstone, I noticed the entrance signs can vary in size and in design. I wondered why.   
Northwest Entrance Sign (stone & wood)
Southwest Entrance Sign
West Entrance Sign (wood panel)
Highway 191 Entrance Sign
There isn’t a lot of information about the park entrance signs. However, I did find an Internet article that addressed the need to achieve consistency for park entrance signs (stone and wood versus all wood panel signs) used throughout the National Park system.  A compromise was reached by consistently using the National Park Service arrowhead logo and the typeface used on the sign. I’m still trying to discover which entrance sign is the oldest in Yellowstone National Park. I’ll have to ask that question at a Visitor Center during my next visit.

No matter how many times I visit Yellowstone, I never get tired of seeing its ever-changing scenery. I invite you to view my other blog posts on Yellowstone National Park by clicking on the following links:

Planning a visit to Yellowstone? Food and lodging options are available inside the park and in towns just outside the park (West Yellowstone, Gardiner, and Cooke City/Silver Gate – all located in Montana). I highly recommend making lodging reservations in advance. Yellowstone is a popular destination and “No Vacancy” signs are common especially during the peak summer months. Since opinions, preferences, and budgets vary, I suggest checking a trusted travel source for current reviews.

My best advice is this - don’t just drive through Yellowstone – experience it!

The National Park Service has created a series of short videos titled “Inside Yellowstone”. It’s a fast and fun way to learn about the Park. Click on the following link to begin this Yellowstone experience.

Family vacations created some of my favorite memories. To start planning your memorable trip to Yellowstone, please click on the following link: