You'll Really Dig "The Big Ditch" - Panama Canal

In the 1880's, the French proposed a 50 mile long canal that would be built across the Isthmus of Panama in a northwest to southwest direction connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.  This would save ships from sailing 8,000 miles around the Horn of South America.  The French worked for ten years on the canal.  However, the seemingly impossible terrain, construction costs, natural elements, and loss of thousands of lives resulted in the failed attempt to build "The Big Ditch".  So, how did the Panama Canal become a reality?

*Map

In 1901, President Roosevelt took up the cause.  Through determination and ingenuity this engineering marvel officially opened on August 15, 1914.  This feat was achieved by building a series of locks, damming the Chagres River, and creating a large man-made lake (Gatun Lake).  

Gatun Lake - Dam

Gatun Lake - Ships Waiting to enter Canal

There are three locks (Gatun, Miraflores, and Pedro Miguel) that are 110 feet wide and 1,000 feet long. The large doors at each lock chamber are water-tight and hollow making the doors buoyant and easily opened and closed by the use of 40 horse power engines.

The locks act like a series of steps lifting or lowering ships a total of 85 feet (the difference in levels between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans).  Ships entering from the Atlantic Ocean encounter the Gatun Lock first.  These ships are lowered as they proceed through the Panama Canal to the Pacific Ocean.  Ships entering from the Pacific Ocean begin at the Pedro Miguel lock and are raised in the locks as they move toward the Atlantic Ocean.

*How it Works

Locomotives called "mules" assist ships through the narrow canals.  It takes each ship about nine hours to do a complete transit through the Panama Canal. 

Prior to its official opening, the SS Cristobal made a practice run crossing through the Panama Canal.  When the Panama Canal officially opened on August 15, 1914, the steamer Ancon was the first ship to transit the Panama Canal.  Today, the canal handles over 12,000 vessels a year.  Every vessel that transits the canal must pay a toll based on its size and cargo volume.  Tolls for the largest ships can run about $450,000.  I think it is interesting to note that the Panama Canal is one of the exceptions where ship captains must relinquish control of their ships because they aren’t allowed to transit the canal on their own.  A specially trained canal pilot boards the ship and takes navigational control to guide it through the waterway.

Early Morning Arrival - Pilot Boat at side of Cruise Ship

Gatun Lake - Cruise Ship's Tender Boat and Cargo Ship

Over the years, the Panama Canal has only closed four times (1915 due to a landslide, 1968 due to political unrest, 1989 for security reasons, and 2010 due to flooding).  However, it has never closed due to a lack of water.  As long as the rain forest is left in tact, the Panama Canal can continue as it has for over 100 years. 

And now for our journey …

At 6:30 am, our cruise ship begins its transit through the Gatun Lock (the Caribbean entrance to the canal). It takes two hours to complete the passage through the series of three chambers. 

Gatun Locks - Notice the Height Difference on the Two Cargo Ships

Gatun Locks - Enjoying a Panama Roll at the Panama Canal

No Room for Error in this Tight Fit

Water Control

After we exit the last chamber, we sail by the old and abandoned “Frenchman’s Cut”.  The ship enters Gatun Lake and anchors for a brief time while passengers disembark the ship (via tender boats) for their land excursions.  The ship turns around and goes back through Gatun Locks to dock in Colon, Panama where passengers re-board the ship.

Frenchman's Cut

This is our fourth time visiting the Panama Canal (including a complete transit in 2006). 
During our 2006 journey, we cruised from the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic Ocean.  Our passage through the Panama Canal began near Panama City where we saw the Bridge of the Americas (5,007 feet long).  Upon entering the Canal, we transited through the three sets of locks (Pedro Miguel, Miraflores, and Gatun Locks) until the ship exited the Panama Canal and we continued our cruise.    

Panama City Skyline

Bridge of the Americas at Sunrise

Pedro Miguel Locks with Centennial Bridge

Miraflores Lock 

Cruising the Canal Waterway

In 2007, work began on a $5.25 billion expansion project that will allow larger ships that were too big for the original locks to use the Panama short-cut.  This new set of locks is 180 feet wide and 1,400 feet long.  After a number a delays, it is expected to open in 2016.

Expansion Project - Waterway as seen near Gatun Locks

Aids to Navigation …

Ships entering from the Atlantic Ocean are considered southbound and ships entering from the Pacific Ocean are considered northbound.  The course of the Canal is crooked but there are a series of straight sections with sharp turns.  Range lights have been placed at each end of these sections.  There are more than 100 range lights (mostly simple post lights with a diamond-shape daymarkers).  Actual lighthouses were built where higher range lights were needed.  In 1914 (when the Canal opened), there were 35 lighthouses.  Today, less than 28 of these lighthouses are active.

Gatun Lock Light

Gatun Lock - Old Tower Light

Miscellaneous Lights

The Panama Canal is one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World and should be on everyone’s “bucket list" to see.   I think you will really dig this ditch! 

For more information on the Panama Canal I recommend watching the NOVA presentation of David McCullough's "A Man, a Plan, a Canal" or the documentary "The Panama Canal" presented by the American Experience. 

*Map image from vtoursonline and How It Works image is from an old brochure I had of unknown source