After spending a week in Mount
Rainier National Park,
we arrive in Seattle, Washington
where we board Holland America’s
Westerdam for a 7-day Alaskan cruise. This
is the Westerdam's last Alaskan cruise for the 2013 season.
Day 3 – Ketchikan
At 6:45 am, I hear the ship's
side thrusters signaling our arrival in Ketchikan. I
go outside on our balcony to see what the temperature is like ... definitely
winter-coat weather. Typical for this time of the year, it has been
raining and the misty clouds are hovering around the tops of the
mountains. It seems appropriate since our shore excursion today is
"Magnificent Misty Fjords by Floatplane".
We did a similar tour back in 1999 and enjoyed it. We
board the floatplane and put on our seatbelts and headphones. Up, up, and
away ... the floatplane glides across the water and we soar about 1,000 feet
above the land and seascape. Sam (our pilot) tells us about Ketchikan and the land we
are seeing. We enter Misty
Fjords National
Monument. We see lots of waterfalls
cascading hundreds of feet down mountain sides, a virgin forest, deep lakes
loaded with fish, and endless ridges of mountains. Sam tells us you could
fly around for a week and still not see all the scenic wonders this vast
wilderness has to offer. Just like our last visit here, we land on a lake
near a waterfall (but not the same waterfall). Five of us get out and
stand on the pontoons to enjoy the quiet scenic beauty. This is my
favorite part of the tour.
Misty Fjords
National Monument
After our floatplane tour returns
to Ketchikan,
we still have time for an afternoon tour. This tour is operated by Sourdough
Tours and Justin is our guide. We stop
at Herring Cove where we see a black bear foraging for food by the river
bank. At Saxman Village
(home to an authentic clan house and the world's largest collection of standing
totem poles), we stand in the cold steady rain while Justin gives us a brief
description on the totem poles. We have a few minutes to walk the
grounds.
Saxman Village
We return to Ketchikan where Justin drops us off near Dolly's House on Historic Creek Street
(former busy red-light district). Since our tour includes admission
through it, we make a brief walk-through visit. We did a more thorough
tour on a previous trip. We make a quick stroll down Creek Street and
through a couple of shops near the pier. My fingers are so cold I am fumbling
to work zippers and trying to handle my ID card. We are back
on-board ship by 3pm and set sail for Glacier Bay National Park.
Day 4 – Glacier Bay National Park
The ship enters Glacier
Bay at 6:45am and two National Park Rangers board the
Westerdam. During our early cruising, a pod of Orca whales is seen off
the port side and later a humpback whale breaches out of the water. Unfortunately, we are on the wrong side of
the ship to see them. The good news ... the weather today is great -
especially for this time of the year.
The wispy clouds float around the
mountain tops and waterfalls cascade hundreds of feet down the mountain
sides. The Park Ranger tells us the things that look like brown jelly
beans on the floating pieces of ice are seals and the white specks on the
mountain sides are mountain goats. A few mountain peaks have a fresh
layer of snow. The ship slowly cruises the 65 miles to Margerie Glacier (
a
21-mile-long tide water glacier).
We spend about 30 minutes here admiring the scenery and listening to the berg
seltzer crackling and the sound of ice thunder. We see some minor
calving.
Margerie
Glacier
On our way to/from Johns Hopkins
Glacier, the ship passes by Lamplaugh Glacier and Honnoh Glacier. We enter the
Johns Hopkins Inlet which is closed from May to September 1st (due to seal pups
habitat). So, cruise traffic is allowed here only after that
date.
Lamplaugh Glacier
Honnoh Glacier Johns Hopkins
Glacier
We spend 30 minutes here before
leaving the Inlet. At 6:15pm, the park boat comes along side ship and the
two park rangers climb down a rope ladder to their small boat that speeds them
away to the remote Visitor
Center where they are
spending the winter. We leave Glacier Bay and head for our next port of
call - Juneau.
Day 5 - Juneau
When I awake this morning (7:45am), the ship is
already docked. I pull back our room curtains and take a peek out the glass
door. It is so foggy I can barely make out the mountains and the
dock area. However, within the hour, the sun burns off the fog
revealing blue skies.
Our "Five Glacier Seaplane Exploration" is a 40 minute flight over
five different glaciers which are part of the 1,500 square miles Grand Juneau
Ice Field. The bus takes us to Wings Aviation where we board our seaplane
and taxi down the Gastineau Channel for a smooth water take-off. It does
not take long to arrive at the first two glaciers (Taku and Norris or Nourse -
not sure which the pilot said). The sunny day is adding to the visual
delight of seeing the snow/ice fields from the air. This rugged terrain
is full of jagged high peaks and steep slopes.
Rugged & Jagged Peaks
Our last glacier is Mendenhall
Glacier. It is Juneau's
"drive to" glacier. In previous visits, we have visited Mendenhall
Glacier and hiked a few of the trails and saw Nugget
Creek Falls
close-up but the aerial view of the lake, glacier, falls, and Visitor Center
is a new perspective for us. We return to Juneau with a smooth water landing.
Mendenhall Glacier
We have some time to
ride the Mount Roberts Tramway. The smooth 1,800 foot ascent to the mountain
top is about four minutes long. We walk the one-half mile Alpine Loop Trail to a couple of
observation platforms. They offer a bird's eye view of the channel,
downtown Juneau, and the Chilkat Mountains. It’s back to the Westerdam for our final port
– Vancouver and then back to Seattle.